How to Install LVP Flooring: Steps and Real Maker Specs (2026)

To install LVP flooring, get the subfloor flat to 3/16 inch in 10 feet, leave a 1/4 to 5/16 inch gap at every wall, and click planks together row by row with end joints staggered 6 to 8 inches, though your maker sets the exact numbers. Shaw and COREtec sheets disagree on gaps, underlayment and acclimation. This guide covers the full sequence, a side-by-side spec table and the mistakes that cause gapping.

Tools and Materials for an LVP Install

Floating click-lock LVP needs a short tool list. The Shaw and COREtec install sheets list a tape measure, utility knife, jigsaw, tapping block or rubber mallet, pull bar, 1/4 inch spacers, T-square, safety glasses and a broom or vacuum, plus supplies for subfloor repair if the floor needs it.

Shaw says a sharp utility knife handles most cuts with the score-and-snap method. A dedicated cutter is faster on a large floor; our vinyl plank cutter comparison lists capacities and prices.

Where LVP Install Guides Disagree: A Maker Spec Table

There is no single LVP install spec. Each maker prints its own, and the numbers differ in ways that matter on the job. This table compares what three real install sheets say, so you can see which numbers are firm and which are maker-specific.

Spec	Shaw Floorte Pro 5 (US sheet)	COREtec angle/tap (US sheet)	COREtec Soundcore/Pro (EU sheet)
Acclimation	48 hours only if stored outside 55 to 85 F	Not stated in the sheet	Not required; install at 18 to 29 C (about 64 to 84 F)
Wall gap	5/16 inch (8 mm); 5/8 inch for 3-season rooms or floors over 2,500 sq ft	1/4 inch	6 mm (about 1/4 inch); 12 mm near big windows or in very large areas
Short end joints	Pieces at least 6 inches long	At least 8 inches between joints on adjacent rows	At least one plank width apart
Subfloor flatness	3/16 inch in 10 ft or 1/8 inch in 6 ft	3/16 inch in 10 ft or 1/8 inch in 6 ft	3 mm over 1.5 m or 5 mm over 3 m
Extra underlayment	Not approved; the pad is attached	Not stated in the sheet	Allowed up to 3 mm thick at 300 kg/m3 minimum density
Concrete moisture limit	8 lb (calcium chloride) and 85% RH	5.0 lb and 85% RH	Screed limits given in UK-style units
Sealing the perimeter	Silicone caulk at the floor perimeter in wet areas	Not stated in the sheet	Do not seal the gap; sealing the skirting-to-floor joint is allowed

Both Shaw and COREtec US call for a subfloor flat to 3/16 inch in 10 feet or 1/8 inch in 6 feet. Source: Shaw Floorte Pro 5 installation guidelines and COREtec angle/tap installation instructions

The flatness number is the one spec the makers agree on. The rest is where installs go wrong, because advice written for one brand gets applied to another.

Myth check: “LVP always needs 48 hours of acclimation.” Shaw asks for it only when the planks were stored outside 55 to 85 F. The COREtec Soundcore/Pro sheet says acclimatization is not required and just sets an install temperature range (COREtec installation guide). If your sheet requires acclimation, do it; if it gives a temperature range, stay inside that range for storage and install.

The 1/4 versus 5/16 inch gap is only a 1/16 inch difference. Follow your own sheet, and go wider where it says to, such as large floors, sunrooms or rooms with floor-to-ceiling glass.

Step 1: Prepare the Subfloor

Every sheet above requires a clean, flat, dry and structurally sound subfloor. Check flatness with a long straightedge and mark dips against the 3/16 inch in 10 feet limit. Grind down high spots and fill low spots with a cementitious patching or leveling compound; Shaw requires compounds that meet its moisture and pH limits. Our subfloor leveling guide covers the leveling work in detail.

Concrete Slabs: Test Moisture First

Shaw limits new slabs to 8 lb per 1,000 sq ft per 24 hours on the calcium chloride test and 85% relative humidity on the ASTM F2170 in-situ probe test, with concrete pH between 6 and 10, and says not to install over concrete with a history of hydrostatic pressure. COREtec US sets a stricter 5.0 lb limit and recommends a 6 mil polyfilm moisture barrier. COREtec also notes that waterproof LVP is not a moisture barrier, so wet concrete is still a problem under a waterproof plank.

Wood Subfloors and Existing Floors

Plywood, OSB and similar subfloors must be structurally sound; Shaw says not to install over wood subfloors that sit directly on concrete, and wants crawl spaces dry with 6 mil black polyethylene covering the earth. LVP can go over most existing hard-surface floors if they are clean, flat, dry and sound, but not over carpet, not over wood floors adhered to concrete, and not over sheet vinyl that is heavily cushioned or more than one layer thick. Soft substrates weaken the click lock.

Do You Need Underlayment?

Usually no. Most click LVP ships with an attached pad, and Shaw says an additional underlayment is not approved on its Pro 5 line, including planks without an attached pad. COREtec EU allows an extra layer only if it is no thicker than 3 mm (about 1/8 inch) and at least 300 kg/m3 in density. The common advice to always add foam underlayment over concrete conflicts with those sheets, so check yours first.

Safety: Old Flooring and Adhesive

If you are tearing out old resilient flooring, do not sand, dry sweep, dry scrape, drill, saw or bead blast it or its backing, lining felt or black cutback adhesive. Shaw warns these may contain asbestos or crystalline silica and says to presume asbestos unless you are certain, and it points to the RFCI Recommended Work Practices for Removal of Resilient Floor Coverings. Shaw also says never to use solvents or citrus removers on old adhesive residue.

Radiant Heat and Sunlight

Shaw approves hydronic radiant heat only, with at least 1/2 inch of separation from the plank and a maximum floor temperature of 85 F. COREtec US also caps floor temperature at 85 F. Both sheets warn that prolonged direct sun can cause discoloration and thermal expansion, so close blinds during peak sun.

Step 2: Plan the Layout and Starting Wall

Shaw says to run planks parallel to the longest exterior wall; the COREtec EU sheet says the most common direction is along the light. Start next to an outside wall, which is usually the straightest reference. COREtec US says to snap a chalk line one plank width from the wall at both ends, scribing the first row if the wall is wavy. For a closer look at the first row, see our guide to where to start LVP flooring.

Plan the layout before cutting so you do not end with a sliver row at one wall. Both makers suggest trimming the width of the first row to balance the rows on each side of the room, and mixing planks from several cartons to avoid shade patches. If the first row is not trimmed, Shaw says to cut off the unsupported tongue so a clean edge faces the wall.

Step 3: Click the Planks Together Row by Row

1. Start at the left end of the starting wall and work left to right, setting spacers against the wall at the ends and edges.
2. Angle the short end tongue into the end groove of the previous plank and lower it, taking care not to bend the corner.
3. Cut the last plank in the row to leave the wall gap. Score and snap with a utility knife. Use the offcut to start the next row only if it is long enough: 6 inches for Shaw, 8 inches for COREtec US.
4. Lock the long edge at a low angle and keep pressure on the side seam as you rotate the plank down.
5. Tap long edges and ends with a tapping block over a scrap piece of flooring, striking the block rather than the locking profile. Any gap left between planks can compromise the lock, per COREtec.
6. Use the pull bar to lock the last plank in each row and the long edge of the final row.

“It is critical to keep these two rows straight and square.”

Shaw Industries, Floorte Pro installation guidelines (on the first two rows)

That is why the first two rows get checked for squareness repeatedly. A small error there compounds across the whole room. Mix end joints so no pattern forms; Shaw wants a random look with no piece under 6 inches.

Step 4: Fit Doorways, Vents and Fixed Objects

Undercut door jambs so the plank slides underneath rather than butting the casing; both Shaw and COREtec US say to undercut all door jambs, then use a pull bar to lock planks in tight spots. For irregular spaces, Shaw suggests cutting a cardboard template and transferring it to the plank.

Keep the perimeter gap around every wall, frame and obstacle. Do not install cabinets or other fixed objects on top of a floating floor; both Shaw and COREtec US say so. COREtec EU allows a fixed unit such as a closet to be anchored at a single point only, because a floor pinned in several places cannot move with temperature changes.

Sealing is one place the makers conflict. Shaw says to caulk the floor perimeter with silicone in wet areas such as bathrooms. COREtec EU says not to seal the expansion gap itself, since sealant stops the floor moving, and allows sealant only at the joint between the skirting board and the floor. Follow the sheet for your product.

Step 5: Finish with Trim and Transitions

Pull the spacers and cover the gap with baseboard, quarter-round or a transition strip. Do not fasten moldings or transition strips to the planks; Shaw and COREtec US both say so, which keeps the floating floor free to expand. Protect all exposed edges with molding or transitions.

Install Mistakes That Cause Gaps and Stains

• Pinning the floor with trim, cabinets or fasteners so it cannot move.
• Leaving gaps between planks instead of tapping every seam closed.
• Laying over carpet, heavy cushion vinyl or other soft substrates that weaken the click lock.
• Adding an extra underlayment on a pad-attached product when the sheet does not approve it.
• Skipping the concrete moisture test, since waterproof planks do not stop moisture from below.
• Using common steel nails or solvent-based construction adhesives near the floor, which Shaw says can stain vinyl.
• Leaving the floor in prolonged direct sun without blinds, which can discolor planks and cause thermal expansion.
• Installing from a single carton, which can show shade variation across the room.

Installing LVP Flooring: Common Questions

Do you need underlayment for LVP flooring?

Usually not. Most click LVP has a pad attached, and Shaw says an additional underlayment is not approved for its Pro 5 line. COREtec EU allows an extra layer up to 3 mm thick at 300 kg/m3 minimum density. Check your install sheet, because adding a soft layer can weaken the click lock.

Does LVP flooring need to acclimate before installation?

It depends on the maker. Shaw asks for 48 hours of acclimation only if the planks were stored outside 55 to 85 F, while COREtec states acclimatization is not required for its Soundcore and Pro lines. Follow your own install sheet, and install within its stated temperature range.

How big should the expansion gap be for LVP?

Shaw calls for 5/16 inch (8 mm) and 5/8 inch for 3-season rooms or floors over 2,500 sq ft. COREtec US recommends 1/4 inch and COREtec EU 6 mm. Use the gap in your own sheet at every wall, door frame and fixed object.

Can you install LVP over existing flooring?

Often yes. Shaw allows most existing hard-surface floors if they are clean, flat, dry and sound, with sheet vinyl limited to one layer that is not heavily cushioned. Never install over carpet or over wood floors adhered to concrete, and remove floating laminate where the maker recommends it.

Which direction should LVP planks run?

Shaw says to run planks parallel to the longest exterior wall. The COREtec EU sheet calls the direction of the light the most common choice. Either way, plan the layout first so the last row is not a thin sliver.

Conclusion

A good LVP install comes down to a flat, dry subfloor, a gap your maker approves, tightly tapped seams and trim that leaves the floor free to move. Still choosing a floor? Read our LVP flooring pros and cons and guide to Lifeproof vinyl at Home Depot, and see the labor cost to install vinyl plank if you are weighing a pro. More guides are in our LVP flooring category.