Mahogany vs. Cherry: Janka Hardness, Cost, and Aging Compared
Cherry is slightly harder than genuine mahogany on the Janka scale (about 950 lbf versus roughly 800 lbf for Honduran mahogany), but hardness is the smaller part of this decision. The bigger differences are cost, availability, and how each wood behaves over the years: genuine mahogany has been trade-restricted since 2003, and cherry changes color dramatically with light exposure in a way mahogany does not.
Wood Hardness and Stability, By the Numbers
On the Janka hardness scale, which measures the force needed to embed a steel ball halfway into a wood sample, Honduran (genuine) mahogany rates at approximately 800 lbf and black cherry at approximately 950 lbf. Both fall in the mid-range for furniture woods, well below white oak (1,360 lbf) or hard maple (1,450 lbf), which is one reason both are prized for hand-tool work – they carve, plane, and drill without the fight harder species require.
Dimensional stability tells a different story. Published wood-movement figures put mahogany’s tangential-to-radial (T/R) shrinkage ratio at around 1.1, one of the more stable ratios of any cabinet wood, meaning it moves nearly the same amount across the grain as along it. Cherry’s T/R ratio runs closer to 1.9. In practice, that means a wide cherry panel is more likely to cup or show seasonal gaps in a dry winter than a mahogany panel of the same dimensions, which matters more for tabletops and doors than for smaller parts.
BEST FOR PROTECTING BOTH WOODS
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Howard Feed-N-Wax – $10.88 A beeswax-and-carnauba conditioner that feeds finished mahogany and cherry alike, useful since both woods darken and can dry out unevenly as they age.
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Why Genuine Mahogany Costs More – and What You’re Probably Buying Instead
Genuine (Honduran) mahogany, Swietenia macrophylla, has been listed on CITES Appendix II since November 2003, which restricts international trade to protect wild populations from overharvesting. That single regulatory change is the biggest reason “mahogany” lumber at most hardwood dealers today isn’t genuine mahogany at all – it’s African mahogany (Khaya species) or sapele (Entandrophragma cylindricum), both reddish-brown look-alikes that aren’t CITES-restricted and typically cost less per board foot. If a supplier’s mahogany seems unusually affordable, it’s almost certainly one of these substitutes rather than genuine Swietenia.
Cherry, by contrast, is a domestic North American hardwood (Prunus serotina) harvested mainly in the Appalachian and Great Lakes regions, with no trade restrictions. Supply tracks regional hardwood markets rather than international trade law, so pricing is generally more predictable and it’s easier to source consistent, matched boards for a single project.
The Color-Change Difference Most Guides Skip
Cherry is one of the most photosensitive common furniture woods available. Fresh-cut cherry starts out a pale pinkish-tan, and within just a few weeks of exposure to ordinary daylight it darkens through photo-oxidation into the deep reddish-brown most people associate with the wood – a coffee table left half-covered by a rug for a month will show a visible tan line where the covered section stayed lighter. Mahogany darkens with age too, but far more gradually and without the dramatic early-weeks shift, which is why furniture makers who need color-matched panels for a single piece often prefer working with mahogany or with cherry that’s been pre-conditioned under UV light before finishing.
Both woods take stain and finish well, but because cherry keeps changing color under the finish for months afterward, a stain sample that looks right on day one can look noticeably different by the following season. For furniture you want a stable, matched appearance on immediately, mahogany is the more predictable choice. Our types of wood guide covers where both fit among hardwoods and softwoods more broadly.
Where Each Wood Actually Gets Used
Genuine mahogany’s stability and moisture resistance made it the traditional choice for boat building, Chippendale and Federal-era furniture, and electric guitar necks and bodies, where consistent movement under changing humidity matters as much as looks. Cherry’s association with Shaker and American Colonial furniture comes from the same domestic supply that made it a practical, affordable hardwood for early American cabinetmakers, and it remains a favorite for kitchen cabinetry, dining tables, and turned items like bowls and pens, where its aging color is treated as a feature rather than a flaw.
For finishing either wood, our gel stain vs. oil stain guide and wood finish examples page both cover how different topcoats interact with reddish-toned hardwoods like these. If you’re working with cherry specifically, our cherry wood bathroom ideas page has more on using it somewhere its color-shift is an asset.
Maintenance and Long-Term Care
Both woods hold up well with the same basic routine: dust with a soft cloth, avoid direct sunlight on finished pieces you want to keep an even color, and control humidity swings, especially for cherry given its higher T/R shrinkage ratio. A conditioning wax or polish applied every month or two helps prevent the finish from drying and cracking on either species. For pieces that have already lost their shine or picked up water rings, our guide to caring for antique wood furniture without damaging it covers safe restoration steps for both.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is mahogany or cherry harder?
Black cherry is slightly harder than genuine mahogany on the Janka scale – about 950 lbf versus roughly 800 lbf for Honduran mahogany. Both are considered mid-hardness furniture woods, softer than oak or maple.
Why is genuine mahogany so expensive?
Genuine mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla) has been restricted under CITES Appendix II since 2003 to control overharvesting of wild populations. Because of that, most “mahogany” sold today is actually African mahogany (Khaya) or sapele, which cost less but aren’t the same species.
Does cherry wood change color over time?
Yes, more than almost any other common furniture wood. Cherry darkens from a light pinkish tone to a deep reddish-brown within weeks of light exposure through a process called photo-oxidation, and it keeps shifting gradually for months afterward.
Bottom Line
Choose cherry if you want a domestic, unrestricted hardwood whose color deepens into character over time and you’re not in a hurry for a finished, color-matched look. Choose genuine mahogany if dimensional stability and an immediately consistent color matter more than budget – and budget accordingly, since true Swietenia mahogany costs more than the African mahogany or sapele most suppliers substitute for it.
