Arbored vs. Non-Arbored Hole Saw: Which to Buy? (RPM Chart)
Arbored hole saws have a permanently attached pilot bit and shank, so they chuck straight into a drill and cut in one motion — non-arbored hole saws thread onto a separate arbor (usually a 1/2″-20 or 5/8″-18 fitting) that you swap between sizes. Using the wrong pairing strips the threads or leaves a hole saw wobbling with nothing to guide it. This guide covers the real construction differences, which arbor thread fits which saw size, the drill speed (RPM) each material needs, and when the extra step of a non-arbored saw is worth it.
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Quick Answer
Arbored hole saws already have a pilot bit and arbor built in — grab one for handheld drilling of a single size. Non-arbored hole saws need a separate arbor purchased or matched by thread size, but let you swap the cutting head onto one arbor for a whole range of diameters, which is why kits and drill-press users prefer them.
What Is a Hole Saw, and Where Does the Arbor Come In?
A hole saw is one of several drilling tools shops keep on hand for cutting large-diameter circular holes in wood, drywall, plastic, or thin metal — something a standard twist drill bit can’t do. It doesn’t work alone: the arbor is the connecting piece that clamps the hole saw and links it to the drill chuck. On an arbored hole saw, that connector and a center pilot bit are permanently riveted to the cutting head. On a non-arbored (also called “plug-style” or blank) hole saw, the cutting head has no shank of its own — you thread it onto an arbor sized to match, and the arbor is what actually goes in the chuck.
Arbored vs. Non-Arbored Hole Saw: Full Comparison Table
Most articles on this topic describe the difference in prose. Here’s the same comparison laid out side by side, built from spec sheets and hands-on use rather than repeated online.
| Feature | Arbored Hole Saw | Non-Arbored Hole Saw |
|---|---|---|
| Pilot bit | Built in, centers the cut automatically | Only present if the arbor includes one; some drill-press arbors omit it |
| Setup | Ready to chuck, no assembly | Requires a matching arbor threaded on first |
| Size flexibility | One saw, one fixed size | One arbor swaps across a full size range |
| Removing the cutout plug | Pilot hole splits the plug — can’t save it intact | No pilot hole (on plug-style saws) — plug comes out whole |
| Best power tool | Handheld cordless or corded drill | Drill press, with the workpiece clamped |
| Typical cost per saw | Slightly higher per size (pilot bit + arbor baked in) | Lower per additional size once you own an arbor |
| Best for | One-off holes, beginners, handheld work | Kits with many sizes, drill-press setups, saving the cutout |
Hole Saw Arbor Thread Sizes: Which Arbor Fits Which Saw
Non-arbored hole saws aren’t interchangeable with just any arbor — the threading has to match. Most bi-metal hole saw lines use two standard threads:
- 1/2″-20 thread — fits smaller hole saws, roughly 9/16″ up to about 1-3/16″ in diameter.
- 5/8″-18 thread — fits larger hole saws, generally 1-1/4″ and up.
That’s why most kits ship with two arbors, not one — a single arbor can’t span the whole size range. Beyond thread size, arbors also split into two attachment styles: threaded arbors, which you screw the saw onto by hand (Bosch and Lenox use this system), and quick-change arbors, which snap or release the cutting head without threading — Milwaukee’s Quick-Change and Diablo’s Snap-Lock system both work this way. Quick-change is worth paying for if you’re swapping saw sizes often on the same job; threaded is fine for occasional single-size use.
Recommended Drill Speed (RPM) by Material and Hole Size
Neither hole saw type performs well at the wrong speed — too fast burns the teeth and overheats the arbor pilot bit, too slow lets the saw grab and stall. As a rule, speed drops as diameter and material hardness go up.
| Material | Small (up to ~1″) | Large (4″+) |
|---|---|---|
| Softwood / plywood | 800–500 RPM | 100–60 RPM |
| Mild steel | 580–350 RPM | 80–40 RPM |
📊 Bi-metal hole saws cutting mild steel at 4-1/8″ and larger need to drop as low as 40–80 RPM, roughly ten times slower than the same saw cutting a 1″ hole in wood. Source: Starrett bi-metal hole saw speed and feed guide.
On metal, always add cutting fluid or lubricant to keep the teeth from overheating — a dry bi-metal hole saw on steel dulls within a few holes. On wood and plastic, run dry but let the saw do the cutting instead of forcing it; excess pressure is what snaps pilot bits on arbored saws.
Why Arbored Saws Are More Stable in a Handheld Drill
The built-in pilot bit is doing more work than it looks like. It bites first, centers the hole saw before the teeth touch the surface, and keeps the saw from walking sideways — the failure mode that chips the edge of a clean cutout. That’s the main reason arbored saws are the easier starting point for anyone not using a drill press: the pilot bit compensates for a hand that isn’t perfectly steady.
In our shop, a non-arbored hole saw chattered and skated across a cabinet door until we clamped the workpiece down on a drill press table — the moment the piece stopped moving, the cut came out clean on the first pass. That’s the practical trade-off: non-arbored saves you money across a kit of sizes, but it asks for a steadier setup than a handheld drill alone provides.
Compatibility With Drills, Impact Drivers, and Drill Presses
Both types work in a standard corded or cordless drill with a 3/8″ or 1/2″ chuck — see our full woodworking tools and saws guide for how hole saws compare to other blade types by TPI and use case. Impact drivers are not recommended for hole saws larger than about 1-1/4″ — the hammering action can snap the pilot bit or crack the arbor’s hex shank. For anything in the 2″–6″ range, especially in metal, a drill press with the material clamped down is safer and produces a rounder hole than freehand drilling.
When a Non-Arbored Hole Saw Is Worth the Extra Step
Non-arbored saws earn their keep in three situations: you need many different diameters and don’t want to buy a full pilot-bit-and-arbor assembly for each one, you’re cutting on a drill press where the pilot bit isn’t needed to guide the cut, or you want the cutout plug in one piece — useful for plumbing escutcheons, birdhouse holes, or anywhere the disc itself gets reused. If none of those apply, an arbored saw is simpler and there’s no reason to add a step.
Best Hole Saw Kit Pick
Milwaukee 49-22-4025 13-Piece Hole Dozer Hole Saw Kit
A full arbored kit spanning common sizes with two quick-change arbors, so one purchase covers most household and remodeling jobs.
- Best for: Homeowners and remodelers who need several sizes without buying saws one at a time
- Why we picked it: Covers both the 1/2″-20 and 5/8″-18 thread ranges in one case, matching the arbor-fit table above
- Main drawback: Case is bulkier than a single hole saw — overkill if you only need one size
Compare more hole saw kit options
 Option 1 Bosch HSBIM9 9-Piece Bi-Metal Kit
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 Option 2 Diablo Snap-Lock Bi-Metal Set
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 Option 3 HYCHIKA 17-Piece Budget Kit
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How to Choose Between Arbored and Non-Arbored
- Material: Wood and drywall forgive either type; metal favors a steadier drill-press setup, which suits non-arbored saws.
- Accuracy needed: If the hole has to land exactly on a mark with no drill press, the built-in pilot bit on an arbored saw does that job for you.
- Tools on hand: No drill press and no spare arbor? Buy arbored. Already own a quick-change arbor? Non-arbored saws are cheaper per additional size.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Running full speed on metal. A 4″ bi-metal saw needs 40–80 RPM on steel, not the 500+ RPM that’s fine for wood — overheating dulls the teeth in one or two holes.
- Freehanding a large non-arbored saw. Without a pilot bit or a drill press to hold it steady, a saw over 2″ will skate before it bites.
- Mismatching the arbor thread. Forcing a 5/8″-18 saw onto a 1/2″-20 arbor strips the threads on both parts.
- Skipping cutting fluid on metal. Dry-cutting steel with a bi-metal hole saw is the fastest way to burn out the teeth.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between arbored and non-arbored hole saws?
Arbored hole saws have a permanently attached arbor and center pilot bit, so they’re ready to chuck into a drill immediately. Non-arbored hole saws are just the cutting head — you need a separate arbor, sized to the correct thread (1/2″-20 or 5/8″-18), to mount them.
Do you need an arbor for a hole saw?
Yes, unless the saw is arbored already. A non-arbored (plug-style) hole saw cannot connect to a drill chuck on its own — it has no shank. You need an arbor that matches its thread size before it will do anything.
How do you use a non-arbored hole saw?
Thread the hole saw onto an arbor of the matching size, chuck the arbor into a drill or drill press, mark your center point, and clamp the workpiece if possible — non-arbored saws lack a pilot bit to self-center, so a steady setup matters more than with an arbored saw.
What is the difference between a hole saw mandrel and an arbor?
They’re the same part — “mandrel” and “arbor” are used interchangeably by different manufacturers for the piece that connects a non-arbored hole saw to a drill chuck.
Can you use a non-arbored hole saw in a handheld drill?
Yes for small diameters (under about 1-1/2″), but expect more chatter than an arbored saw since there’s no pilot bit to guide the start of the cut. For anything larger, a drill press with the workpiece clamped gives a rounder, cleaner hole.
Conclusion
For a single hole in a handheld drill, an arbored hole saw is simpler — the pilot bit does the centering for you. For a kit covering several sizes, metal work on a drill press, or saving the cutout intact, a non-arbored saw paired with the correctly threaded arbor costs less per size and gives you more control over the setup. Match the arbor thread and RPM to the job and either type will cut a clean hole.
