How to Use a Featherboard on a Table Saw (And Where It Actually Goes)

A featherboard mounts on the infeed side of the blade — before the cut, not after or over it — and uses angled, flexible fingers to press the workpiece firmly and consistently against the fence and table as it feeds through. That constant pressure is what actually prevents kickback: it stops the workpiece from wandering away from the fence or lifting off the table, which is exactly the motion that causes a piece to bind against the blade and get thrown back at the operator.

Correct Placement: Before The Blade, On The Fence Side

Position the featherboard on the infeed side of the blade, mounted against the fence (or the saw’s miter slot, depending on your setup), so its angled fingers press the workpiece toward the fence as it travels toward the blade. The angle always points in the direction of feed — toward the blade, never away from it — so the fingers flex and release as wood passes under them but resist any backward motion. Never position a featherboard where it could pinch the workpiece against the spinning blade, and never mount one directly over the blade path itself. Some setups use a second featherboard on the outfeed side (after the cut) purely for continued support of a long workpiece, but that second board must be positioned clear of the blade and cutting path — it supports the already-cut piece, it doesn’t press anything toward the blade.

What A Featherboard Actually Does

The purpose is consistent lateral pressure, not just “holding the board down.” A featherboard replaces the inconsistent hand pressure a person naturally applies during a rip cut — hand pressure that can waver, especially near the end of a long cut when your hands are furthest from the blade and least able to safely apply firm, controlled pressure. By keeping the workpiece pinned against the fence the entire length of the cut, a featherboard produces a straighter cut and removes one of the more common causes of kickback: a workpiece drifting away from the fence mid-cut and binding against the back of the blade.

Setting One Up

1. Mount it to the fence or miter slot using the included hardware (T-track bolts, miter slot brackets, or clamps depending on the model), positioned on the infeed side before the blade.
2. Angle the fingers toward the blade (in the direction of feed) at roughly 45 degrees — this lets wood pass through freely while resisting any backward movement.
3. Set the pressure so the fingers flex firmly against the workpiece without requiring excessive force to feed it through — too loose and it doesn’t do its job; too tight and it fights the cut.
4. Run a test piece of scrap through the full cut before committing to your actual workpiece, checking that the featherboard maintains pressure the whole way without binding.
5. Re-check position after adjusting the fence — a featherboard set up for one fence width isn’t automatically correct after you move the fence for a different cut.

Using One On A Router Table

The same core principle applies on a router table: mount the featherboard before the bit (in the direction the workpiece travels), pressing the stock against the fence. Router tables often benefit from a second featherboard mounted vertically against the table surface (not just horizontally against the fence) to keep the workpiece flat during edge-profiling cuts, since an unsupported board can lift slightly off the table under a router bit’s cutting force in a way that’s less common with a table saw blade.

DIY Vs. Store-Bought

A shop-made wooden featherboard (cut from a single board with angled kerfs forming the flexible fingers) works well and costs next to nothing if you already have the material and a band saw or table saw to cut it — a genuinely reasonable weekend shop project. A store-bought featherboard (like the product above) trades that small cost savings for consistent, reliable flex across the fingers, an easier mounting system (T-track or miter-slot hardware instead of clamps), and no upfront build time. Neither is “better” universally — it’s a real tradeoff between cost/DIY satisfaction and convenience/consistency.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the purpose of a featherboard on a table saw?

It applies constant, consistent pressure to keep the workpiece against the fence throughout the cut, replacing inconsistent hand pressure and reducing the risk of the workpiece drifting and binding against the blade — a real, common cause of kickback.

Where do you place a featherboard on a table saw?

On the infeed side, before the blade, mounted against the fence with fingers angled toward the blade in the direction of feed. Never position it where it could pinch the workpiece against the spinning blade or place it directly over the blade path.

Can you use a featherboard on a router table?

Yes, using the same before-the-cutter placement principle as a table saw. A second, vertically-mounted featherboard is often added on a router table to keep the workpiece flat against the table during edge cuts.

Conclusion

A featherboard’s whole value comes from correct placement: infeed side, before the blade, fingers angled toward the cut, pressing the workpiece against the fence. Get that positioning right and it’s one of the simplest, most effective kickback-prevention tools available for a table saw or router table.