Can Cedar Be Used for Framing? Yes, But It’s Usually Overkill

Yes, cedar can be used for framing, but it is a weak structural wood, so it suits sheds, pergolas and exposed timber better than house studs and joists. Western red cedar has about 60% of Douglas fir’s bending strength, according to the Wood Database. This guide covers real strength numbers, where cedar framing works, and which fasteners to use.

Can Cedar Be Used for Framing? The Short Answer

Cedar is a legitimate framing material in a narrow set of jobs. Western red cedar belongs to the Western Cedars species group, which is graded to structural rules by the Western Wood Products Association (WWPA) and comes in Select Structural, No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3 grades. So cedar can be engineered into a frame. What it cannot do is match the strength of the lumber that dominates house framing.

The confusion comes from mixing up two different qualities. Cedar is famous for resisting rot and insects, and articles often stretch that into “strong.” They are separate properties. Cedar’s decay resistance is excellent, its stiffness and bending strength are among the lowest of any common softwood, and a frame has to be designed around the weak number, not the flattering one.

How Strong Is Western Red Cedar Compared With Douglas Fir?

Here are the clear-wood numbers for western red cedar next to Douglas fir, the standard benchmark for framing lumber. Values come from the Wood Database. Its Douglas fir figures are averages across four growing regions, so treat the percentages as a fair overview, not a lab-exact ratio.

Property	Western red cedar	Douglas fir	Cedar as % of fir
Bending strength (modulus of rupture)	7,500 psi	12,500 psi	60%
Stiffness (modulus of elasticity)	1,110,000 psi	1,765,000 psi	63%
Crushing strength (parallel to grain)	4,560 psi	6,950 psi	66%
Janka hardness (side)	350 lbf	620 lbf	56%
Basic specific gravity	0.31	0.45	69%

Every strength number lands between 56% and 69% of fir. Stiffness matters as much as strength for framing, because floors and rafters are usually limited by how much they sag, not by the point where they break. A member that is 63% as stiff bends noticeably more over the same span, which is why cedar members are either shorter-spanning or deeper than fir ones.

What the Structural Grade Values Say

Clear-wood averages are not what an engineer designs with. Graded lumber has its own published design values. According to Real Cedar, the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association, the base values for dry-use Western Red Cedar dimension lumber are as follows.

Grade	Bending (Fb)	Compression parallel (Fc)	Stiffness (E)
Select Structural	1,000 psi	1,000 psi	1.1 million psi
No. 1	725 psi	825 psi	1.0 million psi
No. 2	700 psi	650 psi	1.0 million psi
No. 3	400 psi	375 psi	0.9 million psi

These are base values. A designer still applies size, moisture and load-duration factors, and a 1.15 repetitive-member factor when members are spaced 24 inches or less apart. The point for a homeowner is simple: No. 2 cedar carries a bending value of 700 psi, so a stud, joist or rafter needs its span checked against cedar-specific numbers, not against a table written for another species.

A Span Example, With a Warning

One published calculator gives maximum spans for No. 2 western red cedar of about 6.6 feet for a 2×6, 8.8 feet for a 2×8 and 11.0 feet for a 2×10, using a uniform load and an L/360 deflection limit. The load in that example is not stated in the source we read, so treat those figures as an illustration of scale, not a design. Real spans depend on grade, spacing, moisture, snow and floor loads, and local code, so use the WWPA or Real Cedar span tables or ask an engineer.

Where Cedar Framing Makes Sense

Cedar’s strengths are appearance, low weight (about 23 lb per cubic foot) and rot resistance. Cedar framing makes the most sense where those strengths are visible and the loads are modest.

• Exposed posts, beams and rafters on pergolas, porches and covered patios, where the wood is part of the look.
• Garden sheds, playhouses and small outbuildings with light roof loads, framed with more or deeper members than fir would need.
• Non-structural framing such as trellis frames, planter boxes, fence frames and screen walls.
• Timber-frame accents where an engineer has sized the members for cedar’s design values.

It makes less sense for these jobs.

• Hidden wall studs and floor joists in a house, where you pay for looks nobody sees and get the weakest lumber.
• Long-span floors, rafters and headers, where cedar’s low stiffness forces bigger sizes.
• Anything in permanent ground contact, where even durable species eventually decay and pressure-treated posts are the safer choice.

For where cedar tends to earn its keep across the shop and yard, see our list of what cedar wood is used for. If your project is a deck, our cedar vs pressure-treated deck comparison covers the framing question in more detail.

Cedar Is Not One Wood

“Cedar” covers several different species. This page uses western red cedar numbers because that is the cedar sold as structural lumber in North America. Eastern red cedar and other woods sold as cedar are different species, so do not assume the same design values apply. Our guide to eastern versus western red cedar explains the split.

Fasteners and Connections for Cedar Framing

The Wood Database notes that iron-based fasteners can stain and discolor western red cedar, especially when it gets wet. On exposed cedar that shows up as dark streaks around every nail head. Use stainless steel fasteners, or hot-dip galvanized ones where a structural connector calls for it, on any cedar you plan to leave in view.

Softness matters at the joint too. Cedar’s crushing strength is about two-thirds of fir’s, so a bolt or screw bears on weaker wood, and connections are often the limiting part of a frame. Structural joints, such as beam-to-post connections, should use engineered hardware and be checked by an engineer, not copied from a fir project.

Cost and Buying Tips

Cedar is normally sold as appearance-grade boards, fencing and siding, not as stamped framing lumber, so the first hurdle is finding structural cedar at all. Look for a grade stamp from a recognized agency and a species mark reading Western Cedars, not just a “cedar” label on the tag. Cedar generally costs more per board foot than common framing species, though prices vary by region and grade, so get a local quote instead of trusting a national figure.

If you are sizing lumber, our cedar 2×4 sizes and pricing guide explains actual versus nominal dimensions. For a look at how cedar compares to a cheaper softwood, see cedar vs pine.

Checklist Before You Frame With Cedar

1. Decide whether the frame is structural. Decorative and light-duty frames have far more freedom than load-bearing walls and floors.
2. Ask your local building department whether cedar framing is allowed for your project and what documentation it wants.
3. Get grade-stamped Western Cedars and confirm the grade, since No. 2 and No. 3 differ a lot in bending strength.
4. Use the cedar-specific span tables from WWPA or Real Cedar, or have an engineer size the members.
5. Choose stainless or hot-dip galvanized fasteners and engineered connectors for load paths.
6. Keep the frame off bare soil and let water drain and dry, since cedar’s rot resistance does not cancel repeated soaking. Our guide on whether cedar wood rots covers how long it lasts outdoors.

We have not load-tested cedar framing ourselves. Everything above comes from published species data and grading sources, and none of it replaces a code check or an engineer’s stamp for a structure people will stand under.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you build a house frame out of cedar?

Technically yes, because Western Cedars are a graded species group under WWPA rules with published design values. In practice the values are low, so spans shrink and members get bigger. Most builders use Douglas fir or SPF for hidden framing and keep cedar for parts people see. Your building department and an engineer make the final call.

Is cedar strong enough for floor joists or rafters?

Only with a designed, engineered layout. Western red cedar No. 2 has a published base bending value of 700 psi, and one published cedar calculator shows a No. 2 2×8 topping out near 8.8 feet under its own assumptions. Do not copy a generic span table without checking species and grade, and confirm with a span table for Western Cedars or an engineer.

Can cedar be used for a shed frame?

Yes, cedar is a reasonable choice for a small shed, especially where the frame stays visible. Expect to use more or larger members than you would with fir, use stainless or hot-dip galvanized fasteners, and keep the frame off bare soil. Check your local code, because shed size and load rules vary.

Does cedar framing rot?

Cedar resists decay well, and the Wood Database rates western red cedar as durable to very durable. That rating is about rot, not strength, and it is not a license for permanent ground contact. Keep cedar framing off wet soil and let it dry after rain.

Is cedar better than pressure-treated wood for framing?

It depends on the job. Cedar looks better and resists rot without added chemicals, but for a hidden frame that must carry load, standard framing lumber or treated lumber is the stronger, more conventional choice. For exposed beams and posts above ground, cedar is the appearance choice.

The Bottom Line

Cedar can be used for framing when the job is small, visible or non-structural, and when the members are sized for cedar’s own numbers. For hidden, load-bearing framing, Douglas fir or SPF gives you more strength for less money. Rot resistance is cedar’s real advantage, so use it where weather and appearance matter most.