How Do You Drill a Pilot Hole for a Screw?
A pilot hole for a screw uses a drill bit close to the screw’s shank diameter — about 1/8 inch for a #8 screw in softwood, 11/64 inch in hardwood. Skip it and screws split hardwood, strip out in softwood, or wander off at an angle near board edges. This guide covers matching bit size to screw number, drilling and driving without stripping, common mistakes, and what to do when a screw is already stuck.
What Size Drill Bit Should You Use for a Screw?
Match the drill bit to the screw’s shank — the smooth center section between the head and the threads — not the outer thread diameter. Sizing to the thread diameter makes the pilot hole too large and the screw won’t grip; too small and hardwood splits or the screw head twists off before it seats.
The right size also depends on the wood. Softwood takes a slightly smaller bit than hardwood for the same screw, since softer fibers compress around the shank instead of splitting. For impact vs. hammer drill guidance and more fastening guides, see our drilling and screws hub.
| Screw Size | Softwood Pilot Hole | Hardwood Pilot Hole |
|---|---|---|
| #6 | 1/8″ | 9/64″ |
| #8 | 5/32″ | 11/64″ |
| #10 | 3/16″ | 13/64″ |
📊 A #8 screw needs a pilot hole about 3/32″ larger in hardwood (11/64″) than the straight 1/8″ bit many people reach for by default — undersizing by even one drill size is the most common cause of split trim near board ends. Source: Fair Wind Fasteners, 2026
For the complete chart covering every wood screw gauge from #2 to #14, see our wood screw drill size guide.
How to Drill a Pilot Hole for a Screw
- Mark the spot: Use a center punch or awl to make a small indent so the bit doesn’t wander when it starts.
- Choose the bit: Match it to the screw’s shank diameter for the wood type, using the chart above.
- Set the depth: Wrap a strip of tape around the bit at a point equal to the screw’s length, or use a depth-stop collar.
- Drill straight and slow: Hold the drill perpendicular to the surface and drill at low speed with light, steady pressure until the tape or collar reaches the surface.
- Clear the hole: Back the bit out and blow or brush away debris before driving the screw.
If the screw needs to sit flush or below the surface, follow the pilot hole with a countersink bit sized to the screw head. For picking the right screw length in the first place, see our guide on how long your screws should be for the material you’re joining.
Best Pilot Hole Drill Bit Set Pick
EZARC Countersink Drill Bit Set (12PC) – $16.97
Covers the #6, #8, and #10 pilot holes sized in the chart above, plus #4 and #12, with a matching countersink bit so the screw head sits flush in one pass.
- Best for: Matching pilot hole and countersink to a specific screw gauge without buying separate bits
- Why we picked it: Titanium-coated bits cover the exact screw sizes in this guide’s chart, and the depth collar does the tape-marking trick from Step 3 automatically
- Main drawback: Adjustable depth stops need re-checking after repeated use since the set screw can loosen
Compare more pilot hole drill bit sets
 Option 1 Bosch SP515 5-Piece Set – $17.00
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 Option 2 FTG USA 5 Pc Tapered Set – $18.97
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 Option 3 JNB Pro #8 Pilot Hole Set – $27.90
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Driving the Screw Without Stripping It
Once the pilot hole is drilled, seat the screw by hand a turn or two to start it straight, then drive it with a screwdriver bit that matches the head exactly — a Phillips #2 bit in a #1 slot is one of the most common causes of a stripped head.
Keep the drill at a moderate speed and let the clutch (the torque-limiting collar on most drills) stop the screw once it’s seated, rather than driving on high speed until it stalls. Over-tightening past that point is what cracks a screw head off flush with the surface or crushes the wood fibers around the head.
“On oak trim, we stop the pilot hole a hair short of the screw’s full length and let the last few threads pull the joint tight — go all the way through and you lose that clamping bite, especially near end grain where oak splits fastest.”
For screws going into MDF or particleboard edges, a threaded insert holds far better than the screw alone over time — see our guide on installing screw inserts.
Common Mistakes When Drilling a Screw
- Drilling at an angle: An off-angle pilot hole steers the screw sideways, weakening the joint and sometimes popping through the face of the board.
- Using the wrong bit size: Too small splits hardwood or strips the screw; too large lets the screw spin freely with no grip.
- Skipping the pilot hole near an edge: Wood is most likely to split within about an inch of an end or edge — pre-drill there even in softwood.
- Over-tightening: Driving past the point where the screw seats crushes the wood fibers, strips the head, or snaps the screw.
- Wrong driver bit: A worn or mismatched Phillips or Pozi bit chews out the screw head before it’s fully seated.
What to Do If a Screw Is Already Stuck or Stripped
A screw with a chewed-out head or a stripped hole doesn’t need to be destroyed to come out. Try a wide rubber band between the driver bit and the screw head for extra grip first, then a screw extractor bit if that fails. Drilling the screw out is the last resort, since it enlarges the hole and often takes surrounding wood fibers with it.
For the full order of operations, see our guide on freeing a stuck screw, and for when drilling it out is actually the right call, see drilling out a screw.
FAQ: Drilling a Screw
What Do You Call the Small Hole You Drill Before Driving a Screw?
It’s called a pilot hole — a small-diameter hole drilled to the screw’s length before driving the screw, sized to the screw’s shank rather than its threads. Pilot holes guide the screw straight, reduce driving torque, and are the main defense against split wood near edges and in hardwood.
Do You Always Need a Pilot Hole Before Driving a Screw?
No. Self-tapping screws, drywall screws, and screws going into softwood away from an edge often drive fine without one. Pilot holes become necessary in hardwood, near board ends or edges, with larger screws (#8 and up), and whenever the wood has already shown a tendency to split.
Can You Drill Out A Screw?
Yes. If a screw has a stripped head and you don’t have a screw extractor set, you can drill it out with a power drill and a quality metal drill bit set. The screw will be destroyed and the threads of the hole may be damaged, but it’s the easiest option when other methods fail.
How Do You Drill A Hole For A Screw?
Choose a bit sized to the screw’s shank and fit it into your drill. Position the tip on the indentation made with a center punch, then drill to a depth equal to the screw’s length and back the bit out carefully before installing the screw.
How Do You Drill A Hole In A Set Screw?
Choose the right size bit and fit it into your drill. Measure the set screw against the tip of the bit and wrap tape where the screw ends, position the tip on the set screw, hold it at the angle you want, and drill to a depth equal to the screw’s length before installing it carefully.
What Drill Bit Will Go Through A Screw?
Choose a drill bit nearly the same size as the screw’s center core, not its full width including threads. A pilot hole first can help ensure a secure bond, but keep it from being too small or it may split or crack the material being drilled.
Conclusion
Drilling a screw comes down to matching the pilot hole to the screw’s shank and the wood species, then driving it with the right bit and just enough torque to seat it flush. Get the size chart above right, and most stripped screws, split boards, and off-angle holes stop happening before they start.
