How to Make Cedar Oil: 2 Methods That Actually Work
Real cedar oil comes from steam distilling cedarwood chips through a still with a condenser, not from simmering chips in an open pot until the water disappears. Skip the condenser and you get a scorched, dry pot with no oil to show for it. This guide covers two methods that actually work: true steam distillation and a no-still infused oil, plus the real shelf life (not one year) and safe dilution ratios.
Quick Answer
Steam distill cedarwood chips in a pot fitted with an inverted, ice-topped lid over a heatproof bowl, then skim the oil off the collected liquid. No still on hand? Infuse dried cedar shavings in jojoba or another carrier oil for 2–3 weeks instead. Properly stored cedarwood oil keeps for 4–8 years, not the one year often quoted online.
What You’ll Need Before You Start
The tools differ depending on which method you use. Steam distillation needs a way to condense steam; the infused-oil method just needs a jar and time.
For Steam Distillation
- Fresh, dry cedarwood chips or sawdust — smaller pieces expose more surface area to steam
- A large stockpot with a lid you can flip upside down
- An empty small can or metal trivet, to hold a bowl above the water line
- A heatproof glass bowl that fits inside the pot without floating
- Ice cubes and a bag of ice to refresh them
- A dropper or small glass jar for collecting the finished oil
For Infused (No-Still) Cedar Oil
- Dried cedar leaves, needles, or fine wood shavings
- A high-quality carrier oil — jojoba, coconut, or olive oil, cold-pressed if possible
- A clean glass jar with a tight lid
- Cheesecloth or a fine mesh strainer
- A dark glass bottle for storage
How to Actually Steam-Distill Cedar Oil at Home
This is the corrected version of the stovetop method — the version below that only says “boil the water off” will not produce oil, because nothing is there to condense and catch the steam. A still needs three things: heat, a cold surface for the steam to hit, and a bowl to catch what drips off that cold surface.
- Prep the wood: Chip or shred fresh, dry cedarwood into pieces smaller than a fingernail so more surface area is exposed to the steam.
- Build the base: Set a small empty can or a metal trivet in the center of a large stockpot, then scatter the cedar chips around it and add water until it covers the chips but stays below the top of the trivet.
- Add the catch bowl: Place a heatproof glass bowl on top of the trivet, inside the pot, positioned to sit directly under the center of the lid.
- Invert the lid: Turn the pot’s lid upside down before setting it on the pot, so its curve points down toward the catch bowl instead of away from it.
- Load the lid with ice: Pile ice on top of the inverted lid. The temperature gap between the rising steam and the cold lid is what forces the steam to condense and drip down into the bowl.
- Simmer, don’t boil hard: Heat the pot on medium-low for 45–60 minutes, topping up the ice as it melts, keeping the water at a gentle simmer rather than a rolling boil.
- Collect and separate: Turn off the heat, let everything cool for a few minutes, then lift out the catch bowl. Use a dropper to pull the thin oil layer off the top of the water underneath.
- Bottle the oil: Transfer only the oil layer into a small dark glass bottle. The remaining water is cedar hydrosol — a mild, usable byproduct for a linen or room spray.
“Steam distillation doesn’t penetrate deeply into chips, so it averages only a 50 percent yield of the oil from the wood.”
That’s exactly why Step 1 matters — smaller, fresher chips give steam more surface area to work through in the time you’re willing to stand over a stove, and it’s the difference between a usable batch and a few drops.
Best Home Distillation Kit Pick

Deschem 500ml Glass Distillation Apparatus
A real 24/40 ground-glass still built specifically for essential oils, with a proper condenser — the exact part missing from the improvised pot-and-lid method.
- Best for: hobbyists who want to run the real steam-distillation method above without building an improvised rig
- Why we picked it: ground-glass joints connect straight to a condenser, so you’re not relying on ice and an inverted lid
- Main drawback: glassware is fragile and the 500ml flask limits you to a few ounces of chips per batch
Compare more cedar oil-making options
![]() Option 1 QWORK 100ml Mini Distillation Set
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![]() Option 2 LETIME Stainless Steel Hydrosol Maker
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![]() Option 3 Cliganic Organic Jojoba Oil, 16 oz
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No-Still Method: Infused Cedar Oil
Infused cedar oil isn’t true essential oil — it’s a carrier oil that has absorbed cedar’s scent and some of its compounds — but it needs no distillation equipment at all, and it’s the more forgiving option for a first attempt.
- Dry the material: Spread fresh cedar shavings or needles in a single layer and air-dry for 2–3 days until they snap rather than bend — leftover moisture invites mold once it’s sealed in the jar.
- Pack the jar: Fill a clean glass jar about two-thirds full with the dried cedar material.
- Cover with carrier oil: Pour jojoba, coconut, or olive oil over the cedar until it’s fully submerged, leaving about an inch of headspace.
- Steep: Seal the jar and store it in a warm, dark spot for 2–3 weeks, shaking it gently every day or two.
- Strain: Pour the mixture through cheesecloth into a clean container, pressing the solids to release the last of the oil.
- Bottle: Transfer the strained oil into a dark glass bottle and label it with the date you made it.
Steam Distillation vs. Infused Oil vs. Solvent Extraction
| Method | What You Get | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Steam Distillation | True essential oil, plus a cedar hydrosol byproduct | Anyone who wants real, potent cedar oil and doesn’t mind a bit of equipment |
| Infused Oil | A cedar-scented carrier oil (not true essential oil) | Beginners who want a usable, safe oil with zero special equipment |
| Solvent / CO₂ Extraction | Highest-purity oil, but requires industrial solvents or supercritical CO₂ equipment | Commercial producers only — not practical or safe to attempt at home |
Using Cedar Oil for Wood Protection and Pest Control
This is where cedar oil earns its keep in a woodworking shop rather than just a diffuser. Applied to bare, unfinished wood, it soaks in and helps deter the same insects that cedarwood naturally repels — part of why cedar is prized for closets, chests, and outdoor cedar projects in the first place. It won’t replace a real finish on wood that’s exposed to weather, and the scent (and the pest-deterrent effect that comes with it) fades over weeks outdoors, so plan on reapplying it periodically rather than treating one coat as permanent.
Cedar’s insect-repelling reputation isn’t just folklore. See our breakdown of which bugs cedar actually repels (and which it doesn’t) for the specifics before you rely on it as your only pest defense.
📊 Cedarwood oil is one of the active ingredients on EPA’s minimum-risk pesticide (FIFRA 25(b)) list, exempting it from federal pesticide registration when it’s the sole active ingredient in a non-food-use product. Source: EPA, Minimum Risk Pesticides – Active Ingredients List.
How to Store Cedar Oil (and How Long It Actually Lasts)
Cedarwood oil is mostly made of heavy sesquiterpene compounds — cedrol and cedrene chief among them — which resist oxidation far better than the lighter compounds in oils like citrus. Stored correctly, it typically lasts 4 to 8 years, not the one year you’ll see quoted on a lot of DIY sites. It won’t spoil suddenly; you’ll notice the scent turning flat or slightly sour well before it’s unusable.
- Use a dark amber or blue glass bottle — clear glass and plastic both let in light that speeds up oxidation.
- Store it in a cool spot away from direct sunlight and heat sources.
- Keep the cap tightly sealed between uses to limit oxygen exposure.
- Label the bottle with the extraction date so you know how long it’s been sitting.
Other Uses for Cedar Oil
Cedar oil’s warm, woody scent is popular in aromatherapy for its calming effect — a few drops in a diffuser is the most common use. Diluted properly (see the dilution section below), it’s also added to lotions, shampoos, and bath soaks for its skin-conditioning properties, though anyone with sensitive skin or a history of allergies should patch test first.
Learn more about the full range of applications in our guide to the benefits of cedar oil.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Weak scent: Use fresher, smaller-cut cedarwood and keep the finished oil stored in a cool, dark place — heat and light both weaken the fragrance over time.
Oil separation: This is normal for infused oils. Shake the bottle before each use, or add a small amount of emulsifier if you’re blending it into a lotion or spray.
Cloudy or off-smelling oil: This usually means contamination during collection or straining. Use sterilized containers and utensils, and make sure any plant material was fully dry before infusing — residual moisture is the most common cause of spoilage.
Safety and Dilution Guidelines
Understanding Dilution Ratios
Never apply cedar oil to skin undiluted. A conservative starting ratio is one drop of cedar oil to one tablespoon of carrier oil (roughly a 0.3% dilution). Undiluted oil can cause irritation or a burning sensation, especially on sensitive skin.
Skin Patch Testing
Apply a small amount of the diluted mixture to your inner forearm and wait 24 hours. If the area turns red, itches, or swells, don’t use the oil on skin. Pregnant or nursing individuals, and anyone with a history of skin sensitivities, should check with a healthcare provider before using cedar oil topically.
When to Consult Professionals
If you’re unsure whether cedar oil is safe for a specific skin condition, medication, or health situation, talk to a doctor or a qualified aromatherapist before using it. Solvent-extracted cedar oil in particular is an industrial process using chemical solvents — it isn’t something to attempt at home, and store-bought oils made this way should list the extraction method on the label.
Cedar oil is a mixture of essential oils extracted from cedar trees, primarily made up of cedrol, cedrene, and thujopsene — the same heavy sesquiterpenes responsible for both its long shelf life and its scent.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you extract oil from cedar wood?
Steam distillation is the standard method: heat cedarwood chips with water in a still, capture the rising steam with a condenser (or an ice-cooled inverted lid), and collect the liquid that drips off — the oil floats on top of the water underneath. Simply boiling wood chips in an open pot until the water evaporates does not extract oil.
Can you make cedar oil without a distiller?
Yes — pack dried cedar shavings or needles into a jar, cover them completely with a carrier oil like jojoba or coconut oil, and let the jar steep in a warm, dark place for 2 to 3 weeks before straining. This produces an infused oil, not a true essential oil, but it needs no distillation equipment at all.
How long does homemade cedar oil actually last?
Properly stored cedarwood oil lasts 4 to 8 years, thanks to the heavy sesquiterpene compounds (cedrol and cedrene) that resist oxidation. Keep it in a dark glass bottle, away from heat and light, with the cap tightly sealed, and it will outlast most other essential oils in your collection.
Is cedar oil and cedar wood oil the same?
Cedar oil and cedarwood oil are the same thing — both are extracted from the wood of cedar trees and used in aromatherapy, insect repellents, and skincare products. Always check the label of a store-bought bottle to confirm it’s pure and doesn’t contain synthetic fragrance fillers.
Is cedar oil safe to put directly on skin?
No — cedar oil should always be diluted in a carrier oil before it touches skin, at roughly one drop of cedar oil per tablespoon of carrier oil. Undiluted oil can cause irritation or a burning sensation, and a 24-hour patch test is recommended before regular use.
Does cedar oil really repel bugs?
Yes — cedarwood oil is registered as an EPA minimum-risk (FIFRA 25(b)) active ingredient, meaning it’s exempt from federal pesticide registration for non-food use because of its established safety record. That said, its effect fades within weeks outdoors, so it works best as a supplement to other pest control rather than a standalone, permanent solution.
Conclusion
Making real cedar oil at home comes down to picking the right method for your setup: steam distillation with a proper condenser if you want true essential oil, or a simple carrier-oil infusion if you’d rather skip the equipment entirely. Either way, store it in dark glass and it will easily outlast the “one year” shelf life you’ll see quoted elsewhere. See our guide to the benefits of cedar oil for more ways to put a finished batch to use.


