Disadvantages of Cedar Wood: 7 Real Drawbacks (and Fixes)

Cedar’s biggest disadvantages are that it is soft (western red cedar rates just 350 lbf on the Janka scale), has about half the bending strength of white oak, stains black around iron fasteners, turns gray if left unfinished, and gives off dust that triggers asthma and skin reactions in some people. Most of these are manageable once you know which one applies to your project.

Cedar has a great reputation, and most of it is earned. But an article that only sings its praises leaves you buying a dent-prone, pricey board for a job it is wrong for. This guide ranks the real drawbacks, backs them with numbers from the Wood Database, and says what to do about each one. If you want the other side of the ledger, our guide to cedar wood benefits covers what it does well.

One correction before the list: “cedar” is not one wood. The soft, light, reddish lumber sold for decks and siding is usually western red cedar (Thuja plicata), while the aromatic closet wood is eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana), which is actually a juniper. They behave differently, and several of the drawbacks below apply to one much more than the other.

Cedar’s Biggest Drawbacks, Ranked by How Often They Cause Regret

Ranked by how often they cause trouble in real projects, the seven are: softness, lower structural strength, cost, fastener staining, weathering and mildew, dust and allergies, and rot resistance that is good but not a guarantee. Fastener staining sits fourth on the list but it is the only one you can fix completely with a single purchase, which is why the pick above is a stainless screw.

1. Cedar Dents and Scratches Easily

The Wood Database rates western red cedar at 350 lbf on the Janka hardness scale, which it places in its lowest tier, and notes the wood “dents and scratches very easily due to its softness.” That is the drawback you will feel first, whether it is a chair leg, a deck stair tread or a tabletop. Here is how it compares with other woods, using Wood Database figures:

Wood	Janka hardness (lbf)	Compared with western red cedar
Western red cedar	350	Baseline
Eastern white pine	380	About 9% harder
Redwood	450	About 29% harder
Aromatic (eastern) red cedar	900	About 2.6 times harder
White oak	1,350	About 3.9 times harder

The useful takeaway is the fourth row. If a friend says cedar dented in their house, ask which cedar. Aromatic red cedar is more than twice as hard as the western red cedar sold as decking and siding, so a chest or closet lining made from it will hold up far better than a deck made from the softer species.

Softness also affects how the wood behaves at the edges. Screws driven close to a board end can split it, so pre-drill near ends and joints, and keep fasteners a sensible distance from the edge. For high-traffic surfaces such as stair treads, furniture tops or workbench surfaces, consider a harder wood instead. Our guide to the best wood for furniture legs lists options that take daily abuse better.

2. Cedar Is Weaker Than It Looks in Structural Use

Cedar looks like a natural for beams and posts because it is stable and rot-resistant, but its strength numbers are modest. The Wood Database lists western red cedar at a modulus of rupture (bending strength) of 7,500 lbf/in2, a modulus of elasticity of 1,110,000 lbf/in2 and a crushing strength of 4,560 lbf/in2. White oak comes in at 14,830 lbf/in2 for bending strength, so cedar carries roughly half the bending load before breaking.

In practice, that means cedar is a poor choice for long unsupported spans, deck joists or heavily loaded posts. It works well as a fence board, siding or trim, where stability matters more than strength. Use it for the parts people see, and pick a stronger species or pressure-treated framing for the parts that carry the load. Our cedar vs treated wood comparison walks through that split.

3. Good Grades Cost More

Cedar is generally priced above common construction lumber, and the gap widens with grade. Knotty boards are the budget option, while clear, vertical-grain stock costs much more because it comes from the best part of the log. The Wood Database notes the same pattern for aromatic red cedar: large or clear sections are much less common, while smaller, narrower boards with knots are readily available at a modest price.

The cost question is really about lifespan versus upfront price. Cedar can last many years outdoors when kept off wet ground and given decent airflow, but a cheaper board that you replace sooner can come out even. Prices swing by region and by year, so get a current quote from a local yard rather than relying on a number in an article. Our cedar plank pricing guide covers what to expect for different grades and sizes.

4. Iron Fasteners Stain It Black

This is the drawback most articles skip, and it causes some of the most visible damage. The Wood Database warns that with western red cedar, “iron-based fasteners can stain and discolor the wood, especially in the presence of moisture.” Plain steel screws and nails, and steel with a thin coating that wears through, can leave dark streaks running down from each head.

The fix is cheap compared with the board it protects:

• Use stainless steel fasteners. Stainless does not carry iron into the wood. The screw in our pick is Type 316 stainless, according to its Amazon listing.
• Do not mix in a few cheap steel screws. One plain steel screw in a wet spot can be enough to leave a streak, so use one fastener type across the project.
• Check the coating on any coated screw. If it chips as the screw is driven, the exposed steel can stain.

If you already have black stains around fasteners, replacing the screws is the durable fix, since the stain is caused by the metal itself. Once the fasteners are sorted, our guide to red cedar deck stain covers finishing.

5. It Turns Gray and Grows Mildew If You Ignore It

Left unfinished outdoors, cedar shifts from warm red-brown to silver-gray as sunlight and rain break down the surface. Whether that is a drawback depends on taste. Many people like the weathered look, but if you bought cedar for its color, you need to plan for a UV-blocking stain or sealer and a recoat schedule.

The less charming version happens in shade and damp. Wood that stays wet and gets little sun can collect moss, lichen and mildew, and the surface turns dark and patchy. The photos on this page show weathered gray wood with cracks and lichen. Trim back plants, keep boards off the soil and leave gaps for airflow. Cleaning and re-sealing is an ongoing chore rather than a set-and-forget job.

6. The Dust and Oils Bother Some People

This one is a health point, so it deserves care. The Wood Database reports that western red cedar wood and sawdust contain a mix of chemical compounds including plicatic acid, which help explain the elevated rate and severity of allergic reactions compared with other commercial woods, particularly occupational asthma. Aromatic red cedar has been reported to cause skin and respiratory irritation, although the Wood Database describes severe reactions as quite uncommon. It lists redwood as a sensitizer too, so switching species does not always solve it.

For a DIYer, the risk sits mostly in cutting, sanding and routing. Wear a well-fitted respirator rated for fine dust, work outdoors or with dust collection, and wear gloves if you notice skin reactions. Stop and see a doctor if you develop wheezing or a persistent cough after cedar work. Our explainer on why cedar is considered toxic goes deeper on sawdust, oil and pet safety.

7. Its Rot Resistance Is Good, Not a Guarantee

The Wood Database rates western red cedar as durable to very durable against decay, but only mixed in resistance to insect attack. That is a much more careful statement than the common “cedar repels bugs and never rots.” Two details matter in real projects:

• Heartwood versus sapwood. The narrow pale sapwood is not as durable as the reddish heartwood, so boards with a lot of sapwood can age faster.
• Moisture control still decides the outcome. Ground-level decks and shaded, damp installations tend to age faster than well-ventilated ones, even in a durable species.

Our page on whether cedar wood rots covers how long it lasts outdoors in more detail.

Is Cedar Still Worth It?

Yes, when the job plays to its strengths. Cedar is a good choice for fence boards, siding, trim, planters and projects where stability and looks matter more than hardness or load capacity. It is a weak choice for hard-wearing tabletops, structural beams, or wet, shaded, ground-contact builds where nothing has been done to improve airflow and drainage.

If your project is…	Cedar is…	Watch out for
Fence boards or siding	A good fit	Fastener staining, gray weathering
Outdoor planter or trim	A good fit	Fine dust when cutting
Deck surface boards	Fine with care	Dents from furniture and heels, cost
Deck joists or heavy posts	Weak choice	Bending strength is about half of white oak
Table top or stair treads	Weak choice	Softness (350 lbf)
Closet lining or chest	Good, if aromatic red cedar	Skin or airway irritation in some people

If your project is a fence, our dedicated article on the disadvantages of a cedar fence looks at the problems that only show up over long fence runs. If you are comparing cedar with a similar-looking option, see cedar vs redwood.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the negatives of cedar?

The main ones are softness (western red cedar rates 350 lbf on the Janka scale), lower bending strength than hardwoods like white oak, a higher price for clear grades, black staining around iron fasteners, gray weathering if left unfinished, and dust that causes allergic reactions in some woodworkers.

Does cedar warp easily?

Not compared with many woods. The Wood Database lists western red cedar’s tangential shrinkage at 5.0% with a volumetric shrinkage of 6.8%, both in the low tier, so it stays fairly stable. Boards can still cup or twist if one face stays wet, so seal all sides and allow airflow.

What happens to cedar when it gets wet?

It absorbs and releases moisture like any wood. Cedar is rated durable to very durable against decay, but a board that stays damp and shaded can grow mildew or moss and turn dark, and iron fasteners in wet cedar cause black stains.

Can cedar wood rot?

Yes. The heartwood resists decay well, but it is not immune. Sapwood is less durable, and cedar that sits in constant moisture with poor airflow, such as a shaded ground-level deck, can still decay over time.

Is cedar bad for your health?

Western red cedar sawdust contains compounds including plicatic acid, and the Wood Database links it to occupational asthma and a higher rate of allergic reactions than other commercial woods. Finished cedar you only touch or look at is a much smaller concern than the dust from cutting and sanding it.

Why does cedar turn gray?

Sunlight and rain break down the surface of untreated wood, which shifts its color from red-brown to silver-gray. It is mostly a cosmetic change, and a UV-blocking stain or sealer is the way to keep the original color.

The short version: cedar is soft, fairly weak, pricey in good grades, sensitive to iron fasteners, and irritating to cut for some people. None of that is a reason to avoid it, only a reason to use it for the right jobs and to fasten it with stainless steel.