Cedar Vs Redwood Cost: Genius Budget Solutions
Discover which wood saves money best between cedar and redwood decks or trim! We break down the material costs, long-term value surprises, and brilliant budget strategies so you can choose the most durable—and affordable—lumber for your next DIY project with full wallet confidence.
Planning a redwood or cedar project is exciting! These woods bring natural beauty and incredible resistance against rot and bugs to sheds, decks, and beautiful trim work. But often, homeowners stop right here, staring down the pricing guides with a feeling of dread. It’s frustrating when you know beautiful wood is in your future, but the prices seem like they demand superpowers to overcome. The simple truth is that one is almost always pricier, but figuring out how to bring your favorite wood home fits a smart budget is easier than you think. Don’t worry about picking the wrong option; we’ll guide you through the initial cost differences and reveal smart, wallet-friendly sourcing hacks today.
The Great Wood Trade-Off at the Lumber Yard
Wooden love affairs often stall when budgets get involved. Cedar and redwood—both look-alikes in durability—have very different starting lines when it comes to their per-board price tag. Understanding those initial hits sets the groundwork for sensible financial project planning.
California vs. The Rest: A Tale of Availability
Why are these amazing Western woods so popular to begin with? Because they contain natural oils called extractives. This magic keeps bugs away and slows down Mother Nature’s attempt to rot your project.
Unfortunately, this availability isn’t equal across the map. Location drastically affects the final price tag!
- Redwood (Sequoia sempervirens): This stunning wood primarily grows along the coastal strip of the Pacific Northwest, particularly centralized around Northern California. Because of historical over-harvesting and environmental regulations protecting old-growth forests—which is good stewardship, by the way—newly harvested lumber follows very strict sourcing guidelines. This generally leads to higher harvest, milling, and transport costs once lumber leaves that tight geographical area.
- Cedar (Thuja species): Cedar is much more geographically widespread. Western Red Cedar grows across the mountain regions extending up into Canada. This wider native range means more milling operations and easier distribution lanes, resulting in generally less expensive shipping fees for most of the US population.
Comparing the Green Pacesetters: Cedar vs Redwood Appearance Grade Cost
Cost comparison needs to be apples-to-apples. We must look at “appearance grade” lumber—the kind of boards you’d use for visible spots like decking rather than just framing hidden in a wall. A common measurement helpful for comparison (and sometimes budgeting software) is the BF, or Board Foot.
We can simplify these fluctuating market realities into a typical starting observation for comparable quality (Clear Grade, Kiln Dried):
| Wood Type | Typical Mid-Range Pricing Difference (Per 1×6 x 6ft Board) | Primary Governing Cost Factor |
|---|---|---|
| Redwood (Heartwood Choice) | Usually 25%-50% higher | Limited, highly regulated geography/scarcity myths in non-California zip codes. |
| Cedar (Western Premier Grade) | The Affordable Baseline Cost | Wider managed forest supply and accessibility. |
(Resource Note: For the most current pricing which fluctuates daily based on region, always collect quotes from your local lumber network recognized by large builders. Sustainable forestry practices impact all quotes universally.)
Long Views: True Lifetime Cost and Value
It is tempting just to buy the nearest cheaper stack of wood. However, a real savings comparison addresses long-term ownership. If one wood lasts you three years longer than the other, cutting your workload or rebuilding costs, have you truly saved money by taking the cheaper cut upfront?
Decking Real Estate & Weight Considerations
If you are decking or creating raised beds, you’re dealing with bulk replacement factors.
Redwood tends to be lighter overall than some similar density construction woods as it cures, helping structures needing extreme spans. While both resist rot admirably, certified high-altitude redwood often claims slight edges in resistance grading by some standards bodies over commercially treated species, though this should be verified against the specific wood classification utilized in your state or against building standards established by organizations focused on building sustainability like those associated with high-level municipal standards groups (often associated with DOE/federal guidelines on long-term home health).
Because the longevity differences are marginal when both are properly treated and maintained, the cost advantage generally stays where it sits: slightly lower upfront for Cedar.
The Upfront Financial Pinch
For a beginner on a tight budget—say, building a 10×10 foot sandbox or a simple garden bench where the wood replacement is a nightmare—the first cost is everything. If you require, for structural design or aesthetic reasons, Redwood’s signature deep crimson color, the budget planning required moves into complex financing strategies, which we will fix instantly! If you have any specific project structural question that requires engineering input, always consult a licensed residential engineer, which is often required documentation for permits on elevation changes > site reports.
Genius Budget Solutions Explained Step-By-Step
Ready to trick out your project with nature’s best lumber without hurting your wallet today? This is where your skills as an intelligent DIYer shine. We stop focusing on the headline price and start focusing on sourcing and technique.
Step 1: The Grade Triage—Prioritize Placement Over Perfection
Do not, I repeat, do not buy Clear All Heart grade for material under or behind furniture padding. This is common beginner woodworking sin number one! Material grade impacts price more than almost anything else.
- Outdoor High-Wear Surfaces (Decks, Rails): You need Redwood/Cedar “Construction Heart Grade” or “Select Plus/Choice Lumber” grades. These might have small, tight knots acceptable for structural movement but look beautiful once finished or stained. You accept moderate imperfection for moderate savings.
- Non-Visible Uses (Joists/Framers, Planter Bases): Check your local codes. Often, regular kiln-dried Douglas Fir or pressure-treated pine framing is allowed right underneath the cedar visual lay-down, saving you significant money on framing mass that will never visually appear. If you absolutely demand cedar protection underneath, step down to Cumaru or select low-grade knots if permitted by engineering factors on your foundation design sketch and municipal permit filing (check specific load-bearing charts).
- Trim and Small Projects (Veneers, Flower Boxes): This is where you can splurge occasionally, but look specifically for “Character Grade” or “Knotty Rustic.” If you are sealing it with a semi-opaque stain the knots add awesome architectural texture, and you save 30-40% over clear boards.
Step 2: The Finish Switch—Make Your Cheapest Wood Shine Like Luxury
Consistency of sealing technique massively increases short-term perceived value, often hiding minor variations that the lumberyard charges specialty prices for an absence of.
If you land on Cedar because the cost differential was too wide for your initial budget, don’t settle for a faded gray looking deck in three seasons! Invest just as equally large dollars in the sealant.
Apply the best penetrating finish the first go-around. A professional-grade sealant, even on a cedar plank, can deliver durability features that once required the premium redwood price due to higher oil content alone potentially mimicking some stain penetration advantages (source check on marine sealants here: related university agricultural extension maintenance guides often show efficacy of advanced UV sealant choices).
Step 3: Become a Salvage Sensei—Looking Beyond the New Stack
This may be slightly scary for the beginner, but this is maximum savings fuel. If you are planning on sanding and re-finishing materials anyway (perfect for scrap wood bench seating frames), look toward deconstruction over new construction purchasing.
- The “Buy Back Yardage” Approach: Lumber yards (especially locally milled ones specializing or acting as recycling depots for specialty builders) often have ‘short cut’ discard piles—pieces under four feet treated by the same environmental protections but sold as scrap bundles for pennies on the dollar for small craft projects or cut downs on fascia returns.
- Craigslist / Facebook Marketplace (Sustainably Removed Structures): Search diligently for people replacing older but well-treated deck railings or existing natural cedar fencing. If carefully removed (not forced demolition), high-demand, higher-quality antique lumber can often be had transported for less than the raw cost of shipping you need to pay new. Always check quality upon arrival, looking specifically for warped boards or aggressive hardware placement creating structural breaks.
Step 4: Leverage the “Bulk Buy Premium Swap”
Ask suppliers who sold you the foundational framing components if a matching price lock exists between Cedar Grades A and Redwood Grade B if buying over a threshold mass (e.g., buy $2000 of framing/siding now). Sometimes, mills liquidate certain grades to keep their flow constant toward primary buyers, giving secondary purchasers temporary price equality incentives. You must ask! It involves negotiation, showing strong intent.
Understanding Nominal vs. Actual Dimensions (The Hidden Cubic Footage Saver)
This topic trips everyone up, regardless of wood type—so let’s conquer it now. This is essential not just for budgeting timber quantity but for material layout planning (especially for that new pergola).
Wooden goods are priced using Nominal (Named) Size, but what comes off the truck is the Actual Size (Arrived/Milled). Because softwoods like cedar and redwood plan down during kiln energy drying significantly, paying for the theoretical volume wastes project capital if you over-order based on print measurements.
A 2×4 is nominated for 1.5 inches x 3.5 inches when it finally sits waiting from the store shelf once dried.
A 1×6 is nominated to finish about 0.75 inches x 5.5 inches.
Budget Hack Detail: Always calculate project board footage based only on the actual stated milled dimensions from your supplier when quantifying your lumber needs. If you calculate 16 decks boards needed based on full nominal 6″ width calculations when the mill supplies 5.5″ nominal width, you instantly overuse cost quantity. It might seem small, but on large structures—like a massive addition pergola needing 5,000 board feet of coverage, these minor dimension savings stack fast, cutting overall expenditure requirements regardless of the base material selection between cedar vs redwood cost structures.
Advanced Material Trade-Off Comparison Table
To make choosing purely on practicality alongside budget, let’s look at structural and soft service factors:
| Feature Factor | Redwood (Standard Appearance Grade Coverage) | Western Red Cedar | Why This Matters for Your Wallet |
|---|---|---|---|
| Natural Termite Resistance (Natural Oils) | Historically slightly superior in regions of scarcity, often noted slightly higher | Excellent across the entire available wood volume. | Less necessary supplemental repellent chemicals added post-treatments add ongoing cost. |
| Workability / Machining | Medium-soft, can dull tools gradually | Relatively soft, excellent ease of driving nails/screws initially. | Easier work = less accidental error loss = board preservation = savings. |
| Appearance Focus & Popularity | Deep ruby/brown hues required for prestige look or natural appeal. | Pink, sometimes uniform pale blonde base wood, requires stain payoff for deep color | Market demand inflates redwood; take savings where color requirements are flexible. |
(External Reference Link Example: Understanding how wood species respond to natural preservatives across different EPA regions can give deeper insights, often covered by forestry documents linked via state agricultural education portals examining sustainable lumber treatments relevant to climate zones facing different decay pressures.)</p
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Project Deep Dive: Budgeting a Western-Style Covered Patio (Cedar Focused Strategy)
Discuss the scenario using a realistic structure as an anchor. 200 sq ft shade structure. Outline required boards based purely on assuming Cedar Cedar Select Grade utilization to capture savings margin. Break down materials vs. staining/sealing costs…
Preserving Craftsmanship: Maintaining Your Affordability
Talk extensively about finishing the less expensive product beautifully. We focus here on sanding practice (grit order sequence for supreme smoothness on affordable Western Red), weather proofing importance, and annual upkeep to ensure the cheaper siding investment outperforms expectation set by marketing that promotes the baseline premium wooden alternatives as invincible…: Maintaining Your Affordability
Talk extensively about finishing the less expensive product beautifully. We focus here on sanding practice (grit order sequence for supreme smoothness on affordable Western Red), weather proofing importance, and annual upkeep to ensure the cheaper siding investment outperforms expectation set by marketing that promotes the baseline premium wooden alternatives as invincible.
FAQ Corner: Demystifying Costs & Choices
FAQ: What’s the absolute cheapest way to get good rot resistance?
Answer: Don’t buy Cedar or highly-rated Redwood if decay resistance is primary. Buy budget pressure-treated lumber designated for ground contact (Exterior, Above Ground ratings often cost less per area coverage) for hidden areas, then use a shorter run of high-grade cedar or veneer as outward appearance surfacing only.
FAQ: Is it ever cheaper to use Redwood than Cedar near the West Coast?
Answer: Occasionally, yes. Extremely intense wildfires near manage forest harvesting sites can briefly depress the regional market for that year’s available logs, pivoting the cost. Keep constant checks on supplier price adjustment notices during the operating season.
FAQ: My project needs a red color. Can I get that from finishing Cedar?
Answer: Absolutely! A quality stain tinted toward Cedar or Mahogany coloring on clear Western Red Cedar plywood overlay (painted/sprayed heavily and evenly based on application standards) makes it nearly visually untraceable when using visual aids in contrast areas.
FAQ: Do I need to treat both woods if I live in humid Florida? Which?
Answer: Yes, comprehensive treatment is required in humid zones, even for highly durable materials. Both will need routine oil-based sealant reapplication or good UV-resistant deck sealer systems; however, California Redwood often shows better stability metrics against fungal penetration deep inland compared to general soft cedar stocks often sold as common structural grade outside its original home area unless highly specified.
FAQ: What dimensions should I stockpile to save the most time and not guess on quantity?
Answer: Always figure your requirement based on the standard “board foot” breakdown, which measures volume: Volume Needed (BF Requirement for structure) = (Total Sq Ft Surface Area / Actual Coverage Yd) x Required Thickness. Rounding up final material procurement needs to be done not based on total dimension math mismatch, but rather by finding one extra full length board for minor cuts you already planned to acquire.
Mastering Final Spend: Moving Forward With Confidence
We’ve charted the course—Cedar provides an easier entry point into fine natural lumber for budgets constrained early in the planning stages across diverse geographic lines. Redwood commands a premium dictated by its primary (and somewhat confined) source streams and deep cultural legacy, not always by overwhelmingly superior, tangible longevity in a residential build requiring only annual sealants. Your wisdom now lies in Grade Triage (Section 1) realizing that where one cannot invest cost in Heartwood Grade, strategic use of top-quality application finishes (Section 2) allows the affordable option to punch far above its financial comparison mark. Stop agonizing over initial sales tags. By applying focused assessment of need over desire and utilizing smart sourcing tricks like investigating scrap piles (Section 3), you gain immediate hundreds of potential cost rebates. Woodworking isn’t about how deep your pockets are—it’s about knowing where today’s market allows you the best strategic cut. Go confidently into the lumber yard now; armed with knowledge regarding project scope versus premium material expense, your achievable, durable beautiful outcome is within budget reach, guaranteeing satisfaction for every DIY build.
