Termite-Infested Wood: Signs, Keep or Toss, When to Call a Pro
Termite-infested wood sounds hollow when tapped and shows mud tubes (subterranean termites), tiny six-sided pellets (drywood) or damp, decayed galleries (dampwood). University extension services agree that controlling an active infestation is a licensed professional’s job, but what happens to the damaged wood is your call. This guide covers confirming termites, deciding keep, treat or toss, and when to phone a pro.
Signs Of Termite-Infested Wood
Best Wood Moisture Meter Pick
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General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter for Wood, Walls & Water Leak Detection ($39.98) Extension guides tell you to hunt for moisture, because damp wood is what draws dampwood and subterranean termites. This pin-type meter reads 5 to 50% moisture in wood, per the listing, so you can check a suspect board before you decide what to do with it.
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The EPA advises probing exposed wood with a flathead screwdriver to find hollow spots, and hollow wood is also one of the signs Oregon State Extension lists. Then look for the evidence each termite type leaves behind:
- Mud tubes: subterranean termites build tubes of soil from the ground to the wood. UC IPM describes four kinds, and breaking one open may show live workers and soldiers. Rutgers NJAES says active tubes are darker, sit on moist soil and hold live termites.
- Fecal pellets (frass): drywood termites leave pellets with six flattened sides that pile up on horizontal surfaces below the small openings they push them through (UC IPM).
- Swarmers and shed wings: winged termites inside the house are a warning sign. Oregon State Extension notes that a swarm outdoors is not cause for alarm.
- Other clues: Mississippi State Extension lists pin-holes of dried mud on interior surfaces, sunken lines in wallpaper and sagging floors.
Termites or Flying Ants: How to Tell
Compare the wings and antennae. According to the EPA, termites have wings of roughly equal length and straight antennae that may droop, while ants have front wings longer than the hind wings and antennae bent at a ninety-degree angle. Only the termites are a wood problem.

What Are Wood Termites?
Wood termites are social insects that feed on the cellulose in wood. Three groups matter for wood: subterranean, drywood and dampwood termites. UF/IFAS stresses that they need completely different control methods, so the type has to be identified correctly first.
| Type | Where it lives | Evidence in the wood | What extension sources say about control |
|---|---|---|---|
| Subterranean | Nests in soil and reaches wood through mud tubes | Hollow cavities that run with the grain and feed on softer springwood, plus mud tubes | Liquid soil termiticide is the most common method and baits can eliminate colonies (UF/IFAS); a licensed pro does the work |
| Drywood | Inside dry, sound wood, no soil contact | Six-sided pellets under small openings; activity is hard to detect | Spot treatment, heat or fumigation; replacing the wood works if the damage is limited (UF/IFAS, UC IPM) |
| Dampwood | Moist, water-damaged wood | Large, open galleries in wet or decayed wood | Replace the wood and fix the moisture problem (UF/IFAS) |
Subterranean termites usually follow the grain and eat the softer springwood, leaving the harder summerwood behind, which is why their damage looks layered (UC IPM). Drywood termites are found mainly in the southern and western U.S., according to Rutgers NJAES. If you are not sure termites are even the culprit, our guide to termites vs wood rot covers the difference, and our piece on what insect drills holes in wood covers the other suspects.
Termite-Infested Wood: Keep, Treat or Toss?
Most guides stop at treatment. The practical question is what to do with each damaged piece, and the answer depends on what the wood is doing for you. This table matches each situation to what extension sources say, with our own call in the last column.
| What you have | What extension guidance says | Our call |
|---|---|---|
| Load-bearing beam, joist, stud or subfloor | UC IPM says replacing load-bearing wood should involve professionals and may need building permits | Do not self-judge. Get a licensed inspection before cutting or repairing anything |
| Door or window trim with limited damage | UF/IFAS: replace infested wood, usually when it is limited to door or window trim | Remove and replace after the termites are dealt with |
| Furniture or small items (drywood) | UF/IFAS: remove infested furniture or other damaged items. UC IPM: do-it-yourself treatments are not recommended | Isolate the piece away from the house and ask a pro about heat or spot treatment |
| Boards damaged by dampwood termites | UF/IFAS: wood replacement and moisture prevention are effective | Replace the boards and fix the leak or drainage that wetted them |
| Firewood or a stored lumber stack | Iowa State Extension: a woodpile stacked against a house can be an avenue for termites into the structure | Move it well away from the house and off the ground |
The Screwdriver Test: How To Check Damage Severity
No extension publication we read gives a pass-or-fail probe depth, so treat this as our rule of thumb. Press a flathead screwdriver into the wood. If it resists, the damage is probably surface-deep. If the tip sinks in easily or the wood crumbles in layers, it has lost strength. Discard the piece if it is non-structural, and call a professional if it carries weight.
DIY Termite Treatment Methods
Extension sources are blunt that active infestations are not a weekend project. UF/IFAS says controlling existing infestations is generally not a do-it-yourself project, and Oregon State Extension says retail insecticides are only somewhat effective for early infestations. UC IPM states that do-it-yourself treatments for drywood termites are not recommended and that the products needed are not available for homeowner use.
The EPA adds that many termiticides are highly toxic and that only licensed professionals should apply soil barriers. If you do use any pesticide product on or near wood, use only a product whose label covers your situation, and follow the label exactly. Here is the safe do-it-yourself work that does help:
- Probe, photograph and map the damage so a pro can see what you found.
- Check suspect wood with a moisture meter and trace any leak or drainage problem behind it.
- Fix leaks and keep soil dry through grading and drainage, as the EPA recommends.
- Clear wood debris and stacked lumber or firewood away from the foundation.
- Leave structural wood alone until it has been inspected.
Professional Termite Treatment For Wooden Houses
Once termites are in a house, hire a licensed company. The EPA advises checking that a pest control firm is licensed by your state and asking to see the license. These are the main professional options, as described in extension publications:
| Treatment | Used for | What the sources say |
|---|---|---|
| Liquid soil termiticide | Subterranean termites | The most common method (UF/IFAS). Soil barrier effectiveness can last more than 5 years (Rutgers NJAES) |
| Bait stations | Subterranean termites | Rutgers NJAES: tubes go in the ground at roughly 10 ft intervals and take a few months to eliminate a colony |
| Fumigation | Widespread drywood termites | Sulfuryl fluoride kills drywood termites within several days and residents must vacate for several days (UC IPM) |
| Heat treatment | Drywood termites, whole structure or spot | Requires heating all the wood to at least 120°F and holding it for at least 33 minutes (UC IPM) |
| Wood replacement | Isolated, accessible damage | Effectiveness depends on how accurately the infestation was located (UC IPM) |
📊 Termite control alone costs more than $1.5 billion a year in the U.S. Source: Rutgers NJAES, Termite Prevention and Control
We found no current price data in the extension sources we read, so get written quotes from more than one licensed company. Read the contract too. Mississippi State Extension warns that most contracts only cover retreating the structure if it is reinfested, and repairs are typically not covered. For more on killing termites in wood, see our guide to how to kill termites in wood.
Repairing Termite-Damaged Wood
Repair comes after treatment, never before, because new lumber next to an active colony only gives it more to eat.
- Replace: cut damaged wood back to solid material and install new lumber. For trim and non-structural pieces UF/IFAS calls replacement the usual answer.
- Structural members: let a professional decide between reinforcing and replacing. Permits may be needed (UC IPM).
- Moisture first: if the wood was wet, dry it out and fix the source, or the next problem will be rot. Our guide to fixing wood rot picks up from there.
- Cosmetic holes: once the wood is sound and the colony is gone, see termite holes in wood for filling them.
“Termites generally require a pest management professional for control.”
How To Safely Dispose Of Termite-Infested Wood
There is more folklore than guidance here, so here is what the sources actually support.

- Keep it away from the house: Ohio State Extension notes that some experts recommend stacking firewood 20 to 30 feet from the house, elevated off the ground, and warns against stacking infested wood against a wall.
- Bringing it indoors: Iowa State Extension states that termites brought into your home in firewood cannot establish a new nest. The danger is a woodpile against the structure, not a log in the fireplace basket.
- Burning: none of the extension sources we read says burning infested wood spreads termites. The real burning hazard is chemical: the EPA says not to burn CCA or other preservative-treated wood in a residential setting because of toxic smoke and ash.
- Trash: the same EPA page says CCA-treated wood can usually go out with ordinary trash collection. Rules for demolition debris vary, so ask your local waste hauler or landfill.
We found no extension or USDA guidance that approves reusing termite-damaged lumber. As our own judgment, treat any board with galleries as non-structural, and do not reuse it where it carries weight.
Preventing Termite Infestation
Prevention is cheaper than any treatment above. Extension sources converge on the same habits:
- Eliminate wood-to-ground contact and keep at least 6 inches between siding and the soil or mulch line (UF/IFAS, Mississippi State Extension).
- Fix leaks, plumbing drips and AC condensation lines, because Mississippi State Extension calls leaks and moisture problems major termite risk factors.
- Keep mulch, stacked lumber and firewood off the foundation. Our guide on how to protect wood from termites goes deeper.
- Schedule an inspection every year. UF/IFAS suggests an annual renewal inspection by a trained, licensed inspector, and Rutgers NJAES recommends inspecting in summer with a flashlight, probing tool, mirror and moisture meter, focusing on window sills, door frames, crawl spaces and basements.
Frequently Asked Questions
How can you tell if wood is infested with termites?
Tap and probe it. Hollow-sounding wood, mud tubes from the soil, six-sided fecal pellets under small openings and swarmers or shed wings indoors all point to termites. The EPA suggests probing exposed wood with a flathead screwdriver to find hollow spots.
Can termite-infested wood be saved?
Sometimes. UF/IFAS says to replace infested wood when damage is limited, for example to door or window trim, and to remove infested furniture. Load-bearing wood should be assessed by professionals before any repair.
Can termites in firewood infest my house?
Iowa State Extension says termites brought into your home in firewood cannot establish a new nest. A woodpile stacked against the house is the real risk, so keep firewood off the ground and well away from the structure.
Is it safe to burn termite-infested wood?
The extension sources we read do not say that burning infested wood is a hazard. Preservative-treated wood is: the EPA says not to burn CCA or other preservative-treated wood in a residential setting.
Can I get rid of termites with store-bought products?
Not reliably. Oregon State Extension says retail insecticides are only somewhat effective for early infestations, and UF/IFAS says controlling existing infestations is generally not a do-it-yourself project. If you use any pesticide, follow the label exactly.
Is a termite swarm outside a sign my house is infested?
Not by itself. Oregon State Extension says a swarm outdoors is not cause for alarm. Swarmers or shed wings inside the house, however, are a warning sign worth a professional inspection.
Conclusion
Tap it, probe it, and work out which termite type you have. Then match each piece of wood to a decision: replace trim, isolate furniture, move the woodpile and leave structural wood to a licensed inspector. Fix the moisture that invited them, check your clearances, and book an annual inspection. Browse more termite prevention and control guides for related fixes.
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