How to Use Gorilla Glue: Original, Wood, Epoxy and Super Glue
To use Gorilla Glue, dampen one surface, spread a thin layer on the dry one, clamp for 1-2 hours, and wait 24 hours for full strength. That water step applies only to Original Gorilla Glue and, on non-porous surfaces, Clear. Wood Glue, Epoxy and Super Glue do not use it. This guide gives exact steps, clamp times and cleanup for each type, plus what not to glue.
What is Gorilla Glue and Why is it So Popular?
Best Waterproof Wood Glue Pick
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Gorilla Wood Glue Ultimate, 8 oz, $5.97 The one bottle in this guide with no water step at all: a waterproof PVA with up to 15 minutes of open time and a 20-30 minute clamp.
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Gorilla Glue is a family of adhesives, not one product. The original brown bottle is a water-activated polyurethane that Gorilla says expands 3 times into the material, bonds wood, stone, metal, ceramic, foam and glass, and is 100% waterproof. Clear, Wood Glue, Epoxy and Super Glue each have their own chemistry and their own rules, which is why the steps below change from bottle to bottle.
Every figure in the table comes from Gorilla’s own product pages, read for this guide. Check the label on your bottle if it is an older or different size, since formulas and directions get updated.
| Gorilla product | Water step | Clamp or hold time | Full cure | Water rating | Gap filling |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Original Gorilla Glue | Dampen one surface | 1-2 hours | 24 hours | 100% waterproof | No |
| Clear Gorilla Glue | Dampen one surface, non-porous only | 2 hours | 24 hours | Water resistant, not for constant soaking | Minimal |
| Gorilla Wood Glue | None | 20-30 minutes | 24 hours | Water resistant (Type II) | No |
| Gorilla Wood Glue Ultimate | None | 20-30 minutes | 24 hours | Waterproof (Type I) | No |
| Gorilla Epoxy | None, mix two parts | Clamp, leave 30 minutes after set | Not listed | Water resistant, not for constant exposure | Yes |
| Gorilla Super Glue Gel | None | Hold 10-45 seconds | Not listed | Not for outdoor use | No |
Why Dampening Matters (and Which Glues Skip It)
Original Gorilla Glue cures on moisture, so one surface gets a light dampening with a wet cloth or a spray of water and the glue goes on the other, dry surface. Gorilla’s directions say not to saturate the surface and never to add water to the bottle. On dense hardwoods, dampen both surfaces. Gorilla Wood Glue is a water-based PVA and Gorilla Super Glue is a cyanoacrylate that cures on trace moisture already on the surface, so neither needs added water.
One correction to a common belief: Gorilla lists Original Gorilla Glue as not gap filling. The foam helps it grip into the material, but the joint should still fit tightly. If you have gaps, Gorilla Epoxy is the product in the lineup it lists as gap filling.
Original Gorilla Glue: apply above 40 F, service range -40 to 200 F, clamp 1-2 hours, full cure in 24 hours. Source: Gorilla Glue Company, Original Gorilla Glue product page
Getting Ready: Essential Tools and Preparation
A few minutes of setup decides whether the bond holds. Gather everything first, because once Original Gorilla Glue is on the wood you are working against the clamps, not the clock.
Your Gorilla Glue Toolkit
- The right Gorilla glue: match the bottle to the job using the table above.
- Water source: a damp cloth or spray bottle, for Original Gorilla Glue only (and Clear on non-porous surfaces).
- Gloves: Gorilla recommends them, and notes that Original can be a skin sensitizer for people prone to skin reactions.
- Disposable brush: spreads a thin, even layer without flooding the joint.
- Clamps: bar or pipe clamps for boards. For lighter parts Gorilla suggests heavy objects, rubber bands or Gorilla Tape for clamping pressure.
- Dry cloth and standard paint thinner: for wet squeeze-out, per Gorilla. Read and follow the thinner’s own directions.
- Sandpaper, chisel or scraper: for dried foam.
- Drop cloth and safety glasses: a sensible precaution when squeezing a bottle near your face and working over a finished surface.
Surface Preparation: The Key to a Strong Bond
- Clean, dust-free and tight fitting: this is Gorilla’s own requirement for Original Gorilla Glue. Dry-fit the parts before you open the bottle.
- Roughen shiny surfaces: metal, glass and some plastics need scuffing so the glue has something to bite into.
- Run a test piece: Gorilla recommends one the first time you use the glue or bond a new material.
- Mind the temperature: apply Original above 40 F, and best at room temperature.
- Open the bottle correctly: on bottles larger than 2 oz, cut the nozzle tip where it comes to a point and starts to indent.
Step-by-Step: How to Use Original Gorilla Glue
These steps follow Gorilla’s directions for Original Gorilla Glue, the brown polyurethane bottle. Other types are covered in the next section.
Step 1: Dampen One Surface
Lightly dampen one of the two surfaces with a damp cloth or a spray of water. Do not saturate it. On dense hardwoods such as maple or oak, dampen both surfaces. Never add water to the bottle.
Step 2: Apply a Thin Layer to the Dry Surface
Spread the glue on the dry surface only, in a thin layer. Gorilla’s general guide is about half an ounce per square foot, because the glue expands up to 3 times. Wear gloves or spread it with a disposable brush, and watch for squeeze-out on finished furniture.
Step 3: Join the Surfaces
Press the parts together and align them. Gorilla’s directions do not give an open time for Original, so finish the dry-fit and have your clamps set out before you open the bottle.
Step 4: Clamp It
Spread clamping pressure evenly across the joint and clamp for 1-2 hours. Without clamps, use heavy objects, rubber bands or Gorilla Tape. For how long to wait before putting the joint under load, see our guide to how long Gorilla Glue takes to dry and cure.
Step 5: Let It Cure
Gorilla recommends allowing 24 hours for best results.
Step 6: Clean Up Excess Glue
Wipe uncured squeeze-out with a dry cloth, or use a standard paint thinner and gloves. Once dried, remove the foam mechanically by sanding, chiseling, scraping or picking. Gorilla notes that the dried glue will not damage your tools.
We do not recommend using any kind of alcohol or acetone.
Gorilla Glue Company, Original Gorilla Glue directions on removing glue from skin
That rule is easy to miss because many guides, including an earlier version of this one, suggest acetone for skin. Gorilla says alcohol and acetone strip skin oils, which makes the glue more likely to stick.
Specialty Gorilla Glues and When to Use Them
The steps above do not carry over to every bottle with the Gorilla name. Here is how each of the other common types is used, according to its own product page.
Gorilla Glue Waterproof (Clear)
Clear Gorilla Glue dries crystal clear and does not foam, which makes it the pick for visible repairs. A note on the name: Gorilla rates Clear as water resistant, not waterproof. It handles intermittent water but not a constant soak, while Original is the 100% waterproof one.
Dampen one surface with water only if the parts are non-porous (metal, glass, plastic), apply the glue, then clamp for 2 hours with a full cure in 24 hours. It fills gaps only minimally, it can stain clothes, and it is best used between 32 and 100 F.
Gorilla Wood Glue
Gorilla Wood Glue is a PVA, so skip the water. Plane the surfaces smooth, apply a generous amount to one surface (both surfaces on hard-to-glue woods), rub the parts together, and clamp until a fine bead squeezes out. Clamp for 20-30 minutes above 55 F and allow 24 hours to cure. One fluid ounce covers roughly 1.6 square feet.
Wipe wet glue with a clean damp cloth, or shave dried glue with a sharp scraper and sand. Gorilla Wood Glue Ultimate adds Type I waterproofing and up to 15 minutes of open time, with a 50 F minimum, but Gorilla does not recommend it for structural or load-bearing joints. For a closer look, see our Gorilla Wood Glue review and the comparison of PVA and polyurethane glue.
Gorilla Super Glue (Ethyl Cyanoacrylate)
Gorilla Super Glue is a cyanoacrylate. Protect the work area, clean and dry both surfaces, apply a small amount, and press the parts together for 10-45 seconds. Gaps and uneven surfaces can delay bonding, and it is meant for indoor use. The gel version is thicker for more control on small parts.
Cleanup is the reverse of Original. For uncured super glue Gorilla says to blot with a towel dampened with acetone or isopropyl alcohol, testing a hidden spot first because both can damage some countertops and plastics. On skin, soak the cured glue in warm soapy water and never pull the area apart. See how it compares in Gorilla Glue vs Super Glue.
Gorilla Epoxy
Gorilla Epoxy keeps resin and hardener in two syringes. Push the plunger until both reach the tip, dispense equal amounts, and mix for about 20 seconds with the plastic stick. Apply within 5 minutes, since the mix keeps thickening and bond strength drops the longer you wait. Clamp and leave it undisturbed for 30 minutes.
Work in a ventilated area and roughen smooth surfaces first. Epoxy is the product Gorilla lists as gap filling, and its working range is 50 to 100 F. Uncured epoxy can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol, acetone or soap and water.
What Not to Glue With Gorilla Glue
Gorilla’s own product pages list limits that most how-to guides skip.
- Polyethylene (PE) and polypropylene (PP) plastics: not recommended for Original, Clear, Epoxy or Super Glue.
- Rubber high in oil or plasticizer: not recommended for Original or Epoxy.
- PVC pipe with Epoxy: fine on PVC sheets, but Gorilla does not recommend it for pipe.
- Food-contact surfaces: Gorilla Epoxy is not food safe and Gorilla Super Glue is not for food contact. Cured Gorilla Wood Glue and Wood Glue Ultimate comply with FDA 21 CFR 175.105 for indirect food contact, so they suit cutting boards and salad bowls.
- Constant water: Clear, Wood Glue and Epoxy are not for continual exposure, and Wood Glue Ultimate is not for continuous submersion.
- Outdoor parts with Super Glue: Gorilla lists Super Glue as not for outdoor use, and Wood Glue outdoors only under cover.
- Loose-fitting joints with Original: it is not gap filling, so fix the fit or switch to epoxy.
Tips and Tricks for Genius Gorilla Glue Usage
- Less is more: a thin layer of Original, because it expands up to 3 times.
- Always clamp: Original needs 1-2 hours of even pressure.
- Wipe the nozzle after each use: a dry cloth on the nozzle and lid. On bottles of 4 oz and larger, squeeze out excess air before capping to keep moisture out.
- Store it right: cool and dry, and away from laundry rooms, under-sink cabinets and kitchen cabinets, per Gorilla.
- Plan the finish: cured Original takes oil-based and spray paint. Acrylic or latex paint and stains need sanding first.
- Keep Clear off clothes: Gorilla warns that Clear Gorilla Glue will stain them.
Troubleshooting Common Gorilla Glue Problems
Problem: Glue Didn’t Foam or Bond Well
- No moisture: Original needs one surface dampened, especially on non-porous parts.
- Surface too wet: Gorilla says not to saturate it. Damp, not dripping.
- Wrong material: polyethylene and polypropylene plastics will not hold.
- Loose or dirty fit: clean the parts and make sure they meet tightly.
- Too cold: apply Original above 40 F.
Problem: Foam Squeezed Out Everywhere
Too much glue is the likely cause. Wipe wet squeeze-out with a dry cloth or paint thinner while gloved. Once it is dry, sand, chisel or scrape it off. Next time apply a thin layer on one surface only. For a related cleanup case, see how to get Gorilla Glue off plastic.
Problem: Glue Stuck to My Fingers!
Wipe tacky glue with a dry cloth or paper towel first. If that fails, wash with gritty soap and warm water or use a gritty exfoliator, then dry your hands and apply lotion. Cured glue stains skin temporarily and can take several days to wear off. Skip alcohol and acetone. For bonded skin, Gorilla lists 1-800-420-7186 to reach a medical professional.
Frequently Asked Questions About Using Gorilla Glue
Does Gorilla Glue work on wood?
Yes. Gorilla lists wood among the materials Original bonds, and on dense hardwoods you dampen both surfaces. For indoor furniture and joinery Gorilla’s own woodworking guide points to Gorilla Wood Glue, and to Wood Glue Ultimate for outdoor furniture, decking and planter boxes. Both clamp in only 20-30 minutes.
Do I need to add water to Gorilla Glue?
Only for Original Gorilla Glue, and for Clear on non-porous surfaces. Lightly dampen one surface, spread the glue on the dry surface, and never add water to the bottle. Gorilla Wood Glue, Epoxy and Super Glue do not need added water.
How much Gorilla Glue should I apply?
Apply a thin layer. Gorilla’s general guide for Original is about half an ounce per square foot because it expands up to 3 times. For Gorilla Wood Glue, use enough that a fine bead squeezes out when clamped; one fluid ounce covers roughly 1.6 square feet.
Can I use Gorilla Glue on plastic?
Often yes. Gorilla says Original works well on many plastics but does not recommend polypropylene (PP) or polyethylene (PE), or rubber with high oil or plasticizer content. Test a hidden spot first.
Can I paint or stain over Gorilla Glue?
Yes, once it has cured. Gorilla says cured Original can be painted with oil-based and spray paint, while acrylic or latex paint and stains require sanding the glue first.
Is Gorilla Glue waterproof?
Original Gorilla Glue is 100% waterproof, according to Gorilla. Clear, Wood Glue and Epoxy are water resistant but not for continual exposure. Wood Glue Ultimate passes the ANSI/HPVA Type I waterproof standard but is not for continuous submersion.
Conclusion: Build with Confidence!
Match the bottle to the job, dampen only when the label says to, keep the joint tight, clamp for the stated time, and clean up with the right solvent for that glue. For more on choosing adhesives, browse our glue guides, or read how Gorilla Glue works for the chemistry behind the foam.
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